Baxter Wines was born in California but was inspired by French style and winemaking philosophy. The winery was established in 2002 by Phil Baxter and his wife, Claire, with the help of Phil’s father (also Phil). After growing up in Napa Valley, where his father was a winemaker, Phil studied winemaking at UC Davis. While learning the technical elements of winemaking in California, it was after graduation in Burgundy where Phil truly learned how to make wine from vineyard to bottle. He went to work for established Burgundian domaines Domaine de la Vougeraie in Premeaux and Domaine Launay in Pommard, where he acted as full-time cellar master. Having learned French cellar methods and techniques, Phil returned to Northern California to apply his skills and experience to making his own wines, focusing on Pinot Noir (of course). He picked Mendocino County as the ideal area to craft the kinds of wines he envisioned, with its higher elevations, cool valleys, and coastal influence. Partnering with a handful of the best growers in the area, Baxter Wines produced its first vintage in 2003.

The “Black Label” from Baxter combines all their best vineyard sources into one affordable blend, offering a snapshot of Anderson Valley. Five different sites (Filligreen, Helluva, Langley, Valenti, Oppenlander) are used in this wine, representing the region’s variety of microclimates. These sites include a former sparkling wine vineyard, a homestead site over 100 years old, and a former biodynamic apple orchard now converted to Demeter-certified biodynamic vineyard. Each component for the Black Label is also bottled on its own as a single vineyard by Baxter each vintage. Compounding that, each site is planted with a different clone, all of which are fermented separately in small tanks with native yeasts. After a brief “cold soak” (pre-fermentation maceration on the skins) and gentle punch-downs of the “cap” of solids, the wine is carefully pressed and aged in neutral French oak barrels for 24 months.

The 2016 vintage was considered one of the best growing seasons in Anderson Valley for the last decade and every sip of Baxter Black Label supports that claim. The glass bursts with delicate ripe fruit and high-toned floral aromas. This is unadulterated Pinot Noir fruit, without any obtrusive oak notes clouding the picture. There is deliciously ripe bing cherry and kola nut indicating that the fruit is from California, but it’s also equipped with wild strawberry, Mirabelle plum, raspberry, nutmeg, and black currant—reminiscent of the best Côte de Beaune reds. Lithe and pretty as the nose may be, this wine is no delicate flower on the palate, filled with dark forest fruit, brambly blackberry compote, and a polished depth that lingers into a cooling, lengthy finish. Present from beginning to end is the mineral core, giving the wine its drive, energy, and surely quite a few years of aging potential. I would anticipate this firing on all cylinders for the next five years at least. I would serve it on the cooler side, close to 55 degrees, to preserve the fresh red-berried aromatics. This wine definitely warrants Burgundy stems and while a quick decant would coax out some of the aromatics more quickly, it is generous and friendly upon opening. While it is delicate enough for grilled fish, I would pair it with a thick-cut pork chop and arugula salad, being sure to stash away some bottles for the future—in fact, at this price, I’d suggest grabbing a case. You won’t regret it!