We’ve been avid fans of Anne-Sophie’s wines for some time now, and we’re hardly alone: She is regularly referenced as one of the many “young guns” plying their trade in Beaujolais, where an upstart producer can still afford to acquire a bit of land for herself. She was born and raised in the Champagne region and received most of her wine training in Burgundy (Volnay), eventually gravitating southward to Beaujolais, where Pinot Noir gives way in earnest to Gamay. Of course, Gamay is the genetic spawn of Pinot Noir, and the two varieties are commingled in vineyards throughout Burgundy, so there are times when the two can be confused for one another. In my experience with Anne-Sophie’s wines, they always have plenty of the soft, juicy fruit that distinguishes Gamay, but also some of the woodsy, black tea notes (and slightly more rigid backbone) of Pinot Noir. If ever you were going to get flummoxed deciding between the two varieties, these wines are likely to do it!

That said, “Cocottes” is unquestionably, unapologetically Gamay, aged for about four months in a mix of concrete vats and used oak barrels—and it put a big smile on everyone’s face at the SommSelect tasting table. As I said above, there’s a beautiful core of wild-berry fruit along with a delicately stony mineral note that roots it in the granite-rich soils of Fleurie. It is a classic expression through and through, which of course was the goal: In the glass, it’s a deep ruby-purple with hints of pink and magenta, with perfumed aromas of black raspberries, Bing cherries, pomegranate, violets, crushed stones, and a dash of black pepper. It is medium-bodied, with barely-there tannins, modest alcohol, and lots of freshness lending crunch and twang. “Les Cocottes” translates roughly to “my sweeties,” a nod to the playful, brightly fruited style of the wine. It is meant to be drunk now and over the next year or so, and be warned that it is one of those bottles that can disappear in what seems like an instant. Serve it with a little chill, around 50-55 degrees in Burgundy stems and you’ll be hard-pressed to name a wine that combines refreshment and complexity so effortlessly. There are many things it would pair with (including Thanksgiving dinner), but given its name—“cocotte” is also a word for “chicken,” and for a stew pot used in cooking—it seems only natural to go for the Beaujolais classic coq au vin. Enjoy!