At the northern tip of the Sancerre wine appellation is the village of Sury-en-Vaux, about 700 inhabitants strong, and the neighboring hamlet of Maimbray. This is where Alban Roblin’s extended family has made wine for generations, under a variety of labels, and while the word “dynasty” is usually reserved for much bigger operations, I might be inclined to deploy it here: When I see the surname Roblin I know I’m going to get a Sancerre of incredible precision and superior value.

Sourced from vineyards that once were part of the Château de Maimbray (owned by Alban’s legendary grandfather, Georges), Alban Roblin’s wines are precision-cut diamonds at cubic zirconia prices. Sury-en-Vaux is a limestone-dominated terroir, rich in both caillottes (limestone pebbles) and terres blanches (Kimmeridgian “white earth”), and vineyard altitudes are some of the highest in the region—creating exceptionally fine, filigree expressions of Sauvignon Blanc that outclass countless wines costing twice as much. Today’s bargain-priced bottling has an electrifying twinkle that sets it apart from 99% of the competition at this price point. This is the kind of “pantry staple” I want readily at hand. You should, too!

Roblin’s 2019 was hand-harvested and fermented in stainless steel tanks, followed by about six months’ aging on its fine lees (spent yeast cells) before bottling. And what stands out most for me is how full of energy and detail the wine is (as opposed to the many flat, lifeless examples at this price point). In the glass, it’s a glistening straw-gold with hints of green at the rim, bursting forth with aromas of citrus fruits, tart white peach, green mango peel, white flowers, lemon balm, oyster shells, and wet stones. It is medium-bodied and the perfect example of what wine geeks mean by the word “racy”—mouth-watering and invigorating all the way through the aromatic finish. Pull the cork on this one about 15 minutes before serving and let it rip: This is an all-occasion, über-versatile white for salads, seafood, and of course the kind of goat’s milk chèvre every Sancerre producer pulls out when you visit their wineries. Sometimes I forget just how good, how primal, a proper Sancerre can be. Thanks, Alban Roblin, for the timely (and affordable) reminder! Cheers!