Initially, we wanted to hold out for Christmas before revealing today’s microscopic lot of 1969 Premier Cru Burgundy, but after witnessing the monstrous results of Remoissenet’s 1966 Volnay—which is being shipped across the Atlantic as of this writing—we decided to offer something even grander in the interim. This comes from a blend of top Beaune Premier Crus and hails from one of the finest red Burgundy vintages of the 20th century, a year that Christie’s Auction House and Decanter deemed perfect. And now, 51 years removed from the vintage, it has transcended “mature Premier Cru” and entered the rarefied realm of vinous antiquity.
From what we’ve learned, Remoissenet owns a small label named Chancellerie des Chevaliers de L’Arquebuse whose inventory also matures in their pitch-black cellar beneath the cobblestone streets of Beaune. Just like every old Remoissenet offering we do, each bottle of today’s 1969 Premier Cru was cleaned, re-corked, labeled, quality checked, and the winners were topped off with more of the same wine. President Pierre Rovani undertakes this laborious, time-consuming project because Remoissenet is a “merchant of pleasure,” meaning the end goal is to deliver a breathtakingly historic and perfectly drinkable mature Burgundy. We cannot thank him enough for it. In order to find a flawless bottle of half-century-old red Burgundy from a historic producer, many consumers would have to put in a substantial grind and high risk just to receive a medium-to-low reward. Not with Remoissenet: they remove the gambling and the work, all while delivering perfectly preserved, downright fascinating red Burgundy antiques. We purchased all that was left of this legendary ‘69 Premier Cru, 60 bottles total, and they’re now resting in our warehouse, ready to ship to your doorstep. Enjoy.
To say that Remoissenet is a historic négociant would be a gross understatement. My first visit in 2007 with my father was an experience I’ll never forget, and has subsequently led to many return visits. Located in the center of Beaune, Pierre takes you through an iron gate and into a building that instantly transports you back to the medieval ages. That’s just the beginning: You then descend a flight of stairs and the temperature begins plummeting with each step until entering a vast cave below. This is Remoissenet’s winery and cellar, built in the 1300s, which connects to the medieval walls of Beaune itself.
The 2005 purchase of Remoissenet ushered in a new era at this historic firm (est. 1877). In addition to bringing in Répolt, who was previously at Louis Jadot, the new ownership team also added journalist-turned-GM Pierre-Antoine Rovani and winemaker Claudie Jobard, all of whom have re-established the property as a quality leader primarily through investments in vineyards and farming. A prime example: Remoissenet-owned vineyards are farmed biodynamically, and all contract growers are closely managed with an eye toward sustainability. Like many of their modern contemporaries, Remoissenet is redefining what it means to be a ‘négociant’ in Burgundy. They are much more than grape buyers and wine labelers—they are fully involved every step of the way.
But the other distinguishing feature (if not already obvious by now) of Remoissenet is its immense, museum-like collection of back-vintage bottlings. We’ve seen them firsthand while strolling through the catacombs with Répolt and Rovani—stacks of dusty “shiner” bottles, a miniature chalkboard hanging from one of the necks with the vintage and vineyard inscribed. For a wine geek, it’s more exciting than an amusement park ride, especially when you get to pull the cork and literally taste history. Of course, there isn’t much “technical information” to be had on the wine at this point, as is this case for today’s 1969 Beaune Premier Cru. What we do know is that Chancellerie des Chevaliers de L’Arquebuse is a small label under the Remoissenet umbrella that is exquisitely produced and aged like all of their other “antique” wines. Today’s 60-bottle batch matured in their ancient cellars without any disturbances for over 50 years, until July of 2020, when they were shipped to us.
Legitimately mature Burgundy is among the finest experiences on earth, but they can be highly variable due to storage conditions. When it comes to Remoissenet’s old cellar releases, 99.9% of the guesswork is removed, so you can rest assured that you’re getting a sound product. What one can expect with these rare bottles is a smooth, ultra-savory Pinot Noir with zero edges or angles. Poured into Burgundy stems, it reveals a light tawny core with deep amber-red hues and a great deal of earthy, tertiary aromas at first. But, given at least 10-15 minutes in the glass, it opens up beautifully—and only keeps improving after hours one and two. This ‘69 releases dried cherries, currants, and plum skin alongside raw earth, truffle, damp forest floor, bouillon, vintage leather, burnt sugar, loose tobacco, cured meat, smoke, clove, and dried herbs. The palate is deep and soulful, emitting some of the purest secondary/tertiary notes imaginable, and the savory finish refuses to go quietly. I recommend savoring slowly around 60 degrees in Burgundy stems and pouring small amounts at time, 3-4 ounces, so as not to rush the onset of oxygen. Cheers!
