“No other single vineyard in Alsace comes close to Rangen for sheer force of personality, and if I was asked to nominate any vineyard anywhere in the world as producing ‘the ultimate terroir wine,’ Rangen de Thann would be it,” proclaims Andrew Jefford of Decanter. As for me, just hearing the name sends an electric jolt down my spine: Rangen is a dizzyingly steep, universally hallowed Alsatian Grand Cru site that’s farmed by only a few treasured producers. Schoech is one of them, and a single taste of their exceptionally rare “Harmonie R” provides a comprehensive explanation as to why it ranks among the most breathtaking and historic French Grand Crus. Today’s rare opportunity, however, allows much more than a single taste: We’re the lucky recipients of Schoech’s 2015
and 2017.
These are two extraordinarily discrete wines that perfectly epitomize the intensity of Rangen and the influences of a vintage. Whereas the ‘15 is spellbindingly lush and opulently layered, the ‘17 is all about energy, precision, and high-toned finesse—but there’s simply no denying that both have a fierce mineral backbone endemic to Rangen de Thann. So what’s in the bottle? A stunningly ripe yet dry blend of three Alsace noble grapes (Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer) that deliver a mind-expanding expression of Rangen de Thann’s inimitable terroir. With just a fraction of a hectare to their name, Schoech’s rarefied slice of vines here yield about 80 cases, a number that has never satisfied global demand. Accordingly, any legitimate wine lover/collector would be privileged to own a bottle, let alone this shockingly limited two-pack.
Complimentary Ground Shipping on one two-pack.
We could dedicate multiple pages to detailing the numerous characteristics that make Rangen de Thann one of France’s most bewildering Grand Crus, but here are the key points: Rangen de Thann Grand Cru has been continually producing wine since the 1200s, and at 1,400+ feet, it is the highest-elevation Grand Cru in Alsace, a good 40% higher than other top sites in the region. With a 95% incline, it is also the steepest Grand Cru in the region, making it not only impossible to farm mechanically but extremely difficult to farm at all! The soil of Rangen, meanwhile, is primarily stone of volcanic origin which makes it the only volcanic-soil Grand Cru in Alsace. Clearly, this is a singular site that produces singularly majestic wines.
In terms of character, the wines of Rangen are revered for their immense power and concentration, derived from the site’s southern location and south-facing orientation. There’s also incredible minerality, structure, and freshness from its elevation, slope and difficult soils. Olivier Humbrecht, Alsace icon and the region’s first Master of Wine (and one of the two largest landholders in Rangen de Thann), says: “You cannot exploit a vineyard as difficult as Rangen and make generic wine,” and marvels at how this hillside’s wines are reliably “powerful” and possessing “a fine, salty acidity that will never be sharp.” I personally identify the finest examples of this Grand Cru by the subtle flinty/volcanic aromatic note that is unlike anything else in Alsace. Altogether, it’s a complex and enthralling experience.
The Schoech family lives one hour north in Ammerschwihr, but in 2001 they jumped at the opportunity to acquire the minuscule (.15-hectare) parcel of Rangen de Thann Grand Cru that produces today’s wine. The Schoech’s narrow slice of rows sits at the very top of Rangen and is composed primarily of Pinot Gris and Riesling, with a small amount of Gewürztraminer. All fruit is harvested and pressed together and this sacred trinity of Alsace white varieties makes for a true “terroir wine.” It’s all here: the opulence of Grand Cru Pinot Gris; the intensity and aromatic complexity of Riesling; the exotically alluring spice of Gewürztraminer. Still, appellation law stipulates that a wine must be single-varietal to bear both Rangen’s name and a Grand Cru designation on the label, so, rather than pull up their Riesling and Gewürztraminer vines and damage this exceptional wine, the Schoech family instead labels the wine “Harmonie R”—and charges far less than its downslope neighbors. It's a win-win for everyone.
“Harmonie R” is strictly aged in stainless steel and allowed to rest for two years in bottle before release, so it is typically in a remarkable drinking window upon release. Schoech’s 2015 is the product of a blockbuster vintage that brought massive intensity and concentration. It pours a healthy yellow-gold in the glass and shimmers with bright silver reflections. On the nose, ripe pineapple, apricot, quince, yellow apples, green mango, white peach, lemon curd, citrus blossoms, honeysuckle, smoke, crushed volcanic rock, candied ginger, wild herbs, and exotic spices blast out in harmony and increase in intensity over time. The palate is vivid, lush, and brimming with concentration on a succulent finish that holds a few grams of residual sugar. On the opposite side of the spectrum, you’ll find today’s 2017, Schoech’s current release. This is a wine fueled by understated elegance and intense mineral energy—a perfect example of just how influential a vintage can be. The strong Rangen backbone is on full display but this is for those who want razor-sharp acid, waves of electrified citrus/tropical fruit, and mouthwatering savoriness. Is one wine better than the other? That’s hard for me to say—they're both sensational. I might lean towards the ‘15 right now, but give the ‘17 another year or two in bottle and it could very well be the undisputed champion. When consuming, decant for 30 minutes and serve in Burgundy stems around 55 degrees. Cheers!
