Based on our clientele and past purchases, today’s wine needs no introduction for most: It’s a legendary Grand Cru “Clos de Vougeot” from critic/collector/connoisseur-favorite Domaine Gros Frères et Soeur. Since first experiencing their wine some 15 years ago, they have become one of my personal favorite addresses in Burgundy, and a cellar I visit at every opportunity afforded to me. These magical, soul-stirring creations are undoubtedly one of the greatest Grand Cru values and cellar investments we offer, making today’s 2016 the ultimate in luxury-level red Burgundy. Sandwiched between DRC and Méo-Camuzet in the village of Vosne-Romanée, Gros Frère et Soeur is a name that, for us, inspires the same level of awe as its neighboring cult superstars.
To confirm, all one needs to do is take quick inventory of their vineyard holdings, which includes a formidable Grand Cru arsenal of “Richebourg,” “Grands Echézeaux,” “Echézeaux,” and today’s “Clos de Vougeot.” But it’s where, specifically, in “Clos de Vougeot” that makes this all the more exciting and distinct: The Gros’ own a tiny sliver in “Musigni,” a highly revered section of Grand Cru Vougeot that borders Grand Cru Musigny. It’s the pinnacle of cellar-worthy red Burgundy, profoundly deep and long, and, as is usually the case, very small quantities are crafted—only 20 cases were made available to the entire American market!
Although the classic addition of the word “Musigni” on today’s label has been removed in recent vintages (due to rigid appellation regulations), this wine still comes entirely from the Gros’ special lieu-dit. As our subscribers are well aware, Clos de Vougeot is perhaps the most scenic and romantic piece of land in all of Burgundy, but it’s also one of the largest ‘single-vineyard’ designations and thus more highly variable in comparison to most Grand Cru vineyards. More than 80 owners divvy up Clos Vougeot’s 50+ hectares of vines, but Gros Frère’s “Musigni” parcel sits in a prime spot near the top of the slope, adjacent to the fabled “Musigny” Grand Cru. This situation is noteworthy, and it’s reflected in the wine: it is a rich and soulful expression of Pinot Noir, and, like all of the Grand Cru wines in the Gros Frère range, announces itself forcefully. These are deep, muscular Burgundies aged in 100% new French oak.
Warning: A complicated family tree lies ahead, so proceed at your own risk. In the 1830s, the Gros family arrived in Vosne-Romanée and subsequently started a Burgundian winemaking dynasty. Well over a century later, Gros Frère et Soeur was formed in 1963 when brother and sister (frère et soeur) Gustave and Colette combined their land inheritance after their father’s estate holdings from Domaine Gros-Renaudot were split among his sons and daughters (Napoleon I decreed that estates must be equally split between the owner’s children). A further subdivision occurred when Gustave and Colette’s brother, Jean Gros, divvied up his holdings between his own offspring, Michel Gros, Anne-Françoise Gros (not to be confused with famed Anne Gros, who is their cousin), and Bernard Gros. Instead of forming his own domaine, Bernard Gros took over for Uncle Gustave at Gros Frère et Soeur when he passed away in 1984. Bernard now represents the sixth generation of Gros winemakers and today, his son Vincent joins his side. Can you recite all that?
Gros Frère et Soeur farms according to lutte raisonnée principles, they drastically restrict yields, and pruning is done to an almost neurotic extent in order to achieve the greatest levels of ripeness and concentration. In the winery, destemmed grapes ferment in stainless steel vats and age in entirely new French oak for about 16 months. The wine is lightly fined and always bottled unfiltered. It always bears repeating that Gros Frère et Soeur’s Grand Cru bottlings require a clear head and a good environment when enjoying; one of those “study and reflect” wines that delivers unfathomable nuances within a powerfully structured Pinot Noir. The longer you wait, the softer it will become, but there is no wrong time to drink this bottle: a long decant right now offers up a powerful, sleek, and robust red and additional years (10-15) in the cellar will provide more earthy savoriness and finesse. This 2016 “Clos de Vougeot” unfolds with an outpouring of luxurious red and black forest fruit before melding into a spicy, savory core filled with vanilla, cloves, licorice, leather, pu-erh tea, and rose petals. The wine stretches for miles on the palate, revealing layer after luxurious layer alongside ultra-polished, fine-grained tannins. This is liquid hedonism, the peak of rich Pinot Noir, and a rare Grand Cru treat that will impress anyone at your table. Cheers!
