At this very moment, today’s 1998 Spring Mountain is still maturing in its original resting place. In other words, our flawless parcel hasn’t moved a millimeter or seen a single UV ray in nearly 20 years, and now it’s ready for prime time. Produced by a time-honored and internationally respected Napa Valley winery, Spring Mountain’s 22-year-old Cabernet Sauvignon is an exquisite piece of art—albeit one that can be touched, opened, and thoroughly enjoyed. Just like last year, we were given rare access into Spring Mountain’s exquisitely preserved library collection, and this time around it was their stunning 1998 that pulled us in and demanded our undivided attention.
Every antique treasure we taste here so vividly captures the traditional essence of this storied region (dark savory fruit, crushed minerals, supple earthiness) and, in all honesty, wines exactly like today’s are the reason Napa Valley went from local buzz to an immortalized, global sensation all those decades ago. This is a museum piece, a conversation igniter, and a Cabernet-of-the-year candidate, certainly, but the best part about this ‘98? We’re able to offer up to
12 bottles at a
world-best price, despite it being near-impossible to find.
Finding significant quantities of antique Napa Valley wine becomes increasingly more difficult with each passing year. In order to track down perfectly aged library wines such as today’s, it requires efforts outside of a few simple phone calls or quick emails. In the case of Spring Mountain Vineyard, it came in the form of a personal reference from a friend, which in turn led to an unforgettable private tour and tasting at this historic winery. The first vineyard for Spring Mountain was cultivated way back in the late 1800s, a few decades after legendary George C. Yount had planted the first vines in the Napa Valley. Today, Spring Mountain Vineyard performs the impossible by retaining the lost art of classic winemaking and preserving old stocks in their original, hand-carved cellar—two unthinkable triumphs in the frenetic pace of today’s wine landscape. Because they’ve remained entrenched in tradition and quality, I’m forever grateful.
Though the winery as currently constructed wasn’t formed until the early 1970s, the name itself and 845-acre property holds more history than can be included here. Put simply, the Spring Mountain District AVA wouldn’t exist if it weren’t for Spring Mountain Vineyard. Many of the vines under their ownership were originally planted by the renowned Beringer brothers; Charles Lemme (who planted the first Cabernet on Spring Mountain); and Tiburcio Parrott, who, according to the winery’s website, was “...a champion of freedom and of every man’s right to earn a living, regardless of race, creed or color. His standoff and ultimate victory against the State of California, amid the most divisive era in American history, reversed a discriminatory addition to the California State Constitution of 1879 that prohibited the employment of Chinese or Mongolian workers by corporations in the state.”
We also learned that Spring Mountain Vineyard’s sprawling property is planted to over 225 acres of vines that are further divvied up between 130+ hillside plots ranging from 400 to 1500 feet. As such, their vines are exposed to hundreds of unique microclimates that are masterfully and sustainably farmed by hand. In the cellar, it’s all about classic winemaking. Grapes undergo extended macerations and fermentations in stainless steel with a judicious pump-over regimen before being transferred into used and new French barrels for just under two years.
Although everything about this ’98 epitomizes classic Napa Cabernet, it certainly doesn’t show its 22 years of age. I was incredibly impressed by its youthful energy—especially with being a 1998, a vintage where vines endured a wet winter and a cooler growing season (only six days over 90 degrees). But, per usual, it’s not the youthfulness of the wine that reels me in: It’s the breathtakingly intense, highly elegant aromatics and mouthfeel. The wine slowly releases pristine notes of dried currant, red plum, dried raspberry, crushed black rock, iron, bay leaf, loose tobacco, underbrush, cigar box, leatherbound book, cedar shavings, and clove. The palate is medium-plus bodied, and releases calculated flavors of dried, savory fruit alongside dusty, fine-grained tannins and a refreshing acidic lift. In short, this beautifully preserved, quintessential classic Cabernet is a must for any collector.
With old Napa antiques such as today’s 1998 Spring Mountain Cabernet, we always advise standing the wine up at least 24 hours before carefully removing the cork, then waiting about 30 minutes before pouring the wine into Bordeaux stems, being careful not to disturb the little bit of sediment at the bottom of the bottle. Decanting the wine is also an option if you plan on finishing the bottle within the first few hours. Treat it gently, and be patient as the wine opens up. Be sure to stow your remaining bottles in your cellar or a dark, cool, vibration-free corner for consumption over the next 5-10 years. Cheers!
