Perhaps the best way to introduce SITE is to say that a new “Rhône Ranger” has ridden into town, and he’s not messing around. Winemaker Jeremy Weintraub has put together a lineup of vineyard-designated wines which emphatically confirms what visionaries like Bob Lindquist (Qupé) and Randall Grahm (Bonny Doon) revealed more than 30 years ago: That California, and especially its Central Coast, is prime territory for the grapes traditionally associated with France’s Rhône Valley.
Chief among these? Syrah. I sometimes remark on trends we notice as we’re selecting wines to feature here, and here’s a proclamation I make without hesitation: American Syrah has reached new heights of greatness. Look back on the last six months of SommSelect offers and it’s plain to see—California has leveled the Syrah playing field, and if you, like me, are a devotee of the meaty, multi-layered wines of Hermitage or Cornas, SITE’s 2016 from the legendary Bien Nacido Vineyard will speak to you. And it will be convincing: Bien Nacido is widely regarded as one of California’s true “Grand Crus,” and this, as its name indicates, is what SITE is all about—that great wines come from great vineyards. Weintraub, whose “day job” is at Adelaida Vineyards in Paso Robles, is gunning for the Rhône’s elite, most of whom will charge you much more for such a profound Syrah experience. I was pleased to see that all the top critics (including Syrah whisperer Jeb Dunnuck) agreed: SITE’s 2016 not only showcases an ascendant winemaking talent but re-confirms that Bien Nacido Vineyard is one of the world’s greatest sites for Syrah, period. This is a tour de force that no true Syrah lover can afford to miss!
It’s not just Syrah, meanwhile, but Grenache, Viognier, and Roussanne that populate the impressive SITE lineup. It’s as if these varieties, and the superlative vineyards they hail from, have been hiding in plain sight—even though magnificent Californian interpretations of each have existed for decades. I like that SITE is in ALL CAPS: It’s like an exclamation point, an assertion that these varieties not only have a place in California but demand to be recognized. For our part, we’re more than happy to oblige: We offered SITE’s stellar Roussanne, from the great Stolpman Vineyard in Ballard Canyon, not long ago; now it’s time to showcase a Syrah every bit as profound and powerful as my fuller-bodied favorites from the Northern Rhône.
As Weintraub would be the first to tell you, it’s all about the source material. In this case, it’s 100% Syrah from the Bien Nacido Vineyard, which is steeped in history: In the 1850s, the Ontiveros family was granted a deed to a parcel originally called Rancho Tepusquet, near Santa Barbara. From their first days at Rancho Tepusquet, they raised cows, horses, and other livestock next to a small tributary of the Santa Maria River. With a crystalline water source and nearly 2,000 acres of pasture land, the family started building their home. Many years later, in 1969, Bob and Steve Miller, members of their own fourth-generation farming family, acquired two contiguous parcels that were part of the original Rancho Tepusquet. With the chance to continue a tradition of farming sustainably and focusing on the highest quality, they re-christened the land “Bien Nacido,” meaning “well-born.”
Bob and Steve saw it as a perfect home for wine grapes. Santa Maria Valley is technically classified as a “Winkler Region 1B.” This is as cold, in terms of average temperature, as Champagne, the Mosel Valley in Germany, and Burgundy’s Cote d’Or. With its sandy shale soils, it is, as one description puts it, a “maritime-influenced desert.” Understanding this, the Millers planted the vineyard with the first certified virus-free clones of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from UC Davis in 1973. Syrah followed soon after.
Bien Nacido proudly claims to be the United States’ most influential single-vineyard source, with more than 160 producers over 44 years having used “Bien Nacido” on their labels. Only top vineyards in Burgundy have been designated more, and I am certain that has something to do with their 700-year history. Despite its size (200 acres) and multitude of producers citing the vineyard name on labels, the Millers are nevertheless extremely discerning about who gets access to their coveted fruit. A “Bien Nacido Vineyard” designation is a very big deal, and Weintraub has a long-term contract for specific rows from this historic vineyard.
He fermented his 2016 SITE Syrah in a concrete tank, incorporating 30% whole grape clusters (both very Rhône-inspired choices). The wine then aged in 80% new French oak “hogshead” barrels—about 300 liters, or 25% larger than a barrique—for 20 months. The result is a Syrah of serious concentration and power, more in the Hermitage/Cornas mold rather than Côte-Rôtie. In the glass, it’s ink-dark and opaque, with heady aromas of blackberry, mulberry, damp violets, black pepper, cacao nibs, and turned earth. It skews a little more toward the dark fruit (rather than the tapenade/herb) end of the Syrah spectrum, with a very full-bodied—but simultaneously lively—structure. I’m always amazed and impressed when a big wine like this can be so light on its feet—such is the triumph of a cool-climate growing zone! Decant this wine a good hour before serving in large Bordeaux stems at 60 degrees, pairing it with something suitably rich: lamb with Moroccan spices would be great, or go vegetarian with a red wine risotto studded with mushrooms. This wine will “wow” you now and 10 years down the line, so be sure to grab more than one bottle. Enjoy!
