For several years now, July has been one of our favorite “wine months” mainly because it’s when we receive a dwindling allocation, but an allocation nonetheless, of J-L Chave’s universally prized and beloved flagship Hermitage. Alongside the likes of French titans DRC, Lafite, and Rayas, Domaine Jean-Louis Chave has become one of the most significant estates in the world, and their “L’Hermitage” among the most iconic wines. Seldom is a wine discussed with such passion and reverence—legions of wine collectors have savored, cellared, and showcased this holy grail, as it is a mandatory crown jewel in any serious wine cellar.
Since 1481, generations upon generations of the Chave family have hand-farmed this single hillside in pursuit of one shared goal: a timeless and sacred wine that will outlive its creator and become a vinous heirloom for the next—“I question if it will ever shut down” says Jeb Dunnuck of today’s release. Two Springs ago, when my colleague and I walked through Chave’s ancient wine catacombs, tasted site-specific barrel samples (including today’s 2017), and listened to Jean-Louis describe each intricacy with eloquent detail, their legendary status was cemented for us: Chave Hermitage is the gold standard, not just for Syrah, but all of wine. NOTE: Our entire allocation evaporated in 40 minutes last year and we strongly suspect a quicker sellout this time around. Only three per person.
As one drives north through the Rhône Valley toward Burgundy, the hill of Hermitage dominates the horizon. This towering granite hillside looms over the small village of Tain-l'Hermitage and is world renown for producing deep, timeless, and infinitely cellar-worthy Syrah. In this historic appellation, one family estate has been producing elite wines longer than any other: Domaine Jean-Louis Chave. It is an accepted truth that Chave’s Hermitage Rouge is simply one of the most compelling and complex wines on the planet. One of my favorite wine scholars, Jancis Robinson MW, has said that in the entire northern Rhône Valley “no one is more respected than Domaine Jean Louis Chave.” And it’s true: this is a defining wine from all angles, gracing virtually every 3-star Michelin wine list I’ve seen. It is a certified, time-tested classic and a necessary benchmark for any wine collector or enthusiast who wishes to familiarize his/herself with the world’s top tier of red wines.
Chave’s signature “L’Hermitage” is a selection of the best lieux-dits on this towering hill with soils that range from granite to sand to clay. In the winery, all parcels are vinified and aged separately. During our April 2019 visit, we were fortunate enough to barrel sample each individual site, and there’s no doubt that each one had their own special nuances. Ultimately, Jean-Louis is a master blender. Almost all grapes are de-stemmed and the site-specific vinifications occur in a combination of wooden and stainless steel vats. The wine is then transferred into mostly used 228-liter French barrels for nearly 30 months. Afterward, the lieux-dits are blended together and the wine is bottled unfined.
Including the critics, the majority of the world has yet to taste this 2017 in bottle. If I may speak candidly, we too, have only tasted it from barrel—trust me, I’d love to pull a cork now but that would mean one less for all of you. All that said, we vividly remember the barrel tasting like it was yesterday because one thought kept coming to mind: this is going to be legendary. Always a rich, complex, textural masterpiece, Chave’s newest “L’Hermitage” delivers formidable Syrah backbone with exotic spice, smoke, crushed granite, leather, cured meat, savory herbs, and the purest olive tapenade money can buy. While the wine has evolved deeper since our initial tasting, you can expect dense, hearty surges of brambleberries, plum, crème de cassis, and black cherry liqueur to reel you in and keep you captivated for minutes and hours. The marriage of supernatural energy and full-bodied power is Chave’s coveted signature and it’s on full display in 2017. If enjoying over the next 2-3 years, decant for at least three hours, serve in massive Bordeaux stems around 65 degrees, and save a few ounces for the following day. Because curiosity is bound to trump patience, I highly recommend you buy more than one, so that your others can mature over the next 10, 20, 30+ years. Give it time and it will reward you infinitely—this is one of the greatest experiences in the world of wine.
