When we introduced the Western Hemisphere to a true-blue ‘garagiste’ Alpine producer last year, even we were surprised by the remarkable speed at which our inventory evaporated (plus two extra bottles that were supposed to go to the one-man-show importer). Truly, everyone lurched at the opportunity to secure a wine that nobody had ever heard of, and for good reason: It was one of the most remarkable, fathoms-deep Italian red we had tasted in 2019. Since that time, a year has inched by with us emailing/texting about the status of the new vintage. And, all was quiet on the “western” front—that is, until the tiny importer of today’s wine pinged my cell saying that he had access to 20 of the total 116 cases of Cave Gargantua’s new vintage.
Having tasted the previous vintage, only a fool would’ve said no. But, also, because these wines are vacuumed up in Europe within moments of release. This is a must-try red, not just for its certain fame on the horizon, but also for the sheer pleasure and inimitable mix of dark forest berries, mountain herbs, and stone-ground minerality each sip brings. Experiencing this wine will open up a portal—one that will reshape perspectives about Aosta and Italian wine as a whole. Same rules as last year: Only six per person, and you’ll have to get in line behind me!
When you encounter wines from the Vallée d’Aoste (Valle d’Aosta in Italian), you’re experiencing a (viti)cultural convergence of French, Italian, and Swiss wine traditions. French, and a local patois that skews heavily French, is the main language here. As such the labels on bottles can get confusing—typically you’ll see both Italian and French used simultaneously, much as it is on street signs, etc. in the region.
Laurent Cunéaz’s passion for the vine was triggered by working the high-altitude vineyards of Vallée d’Aoste with his grandfather. This desire led him to a winemaking position at the Institut Agricole Régional, an agricultural school that has propelled many local vintners to global recognition. In 2013, Laurent Cunéaz left his position here in order to start his own path at Cave Gargantua. If the Cunéaz surname looks familiar, you’ve got quite a keen eye. Laurent’s winery is only 1,000 feet from Cantina di Cunéaz Nadir (another SommSelect favorite), but, somehow, there’s no familial relation!
Laurent and his brother André are headquartered in the Aosta Valley subzone of Torrette (in the village of Gressan, where vineyards often climb to 800+ meters). Vines here occupy terraces and slopes along the Dora Baltea River and are among the highest-elevation sites in Europe. Although there’s ample water in the form of mountain runoff (surging through Roman-era aqueducts that criss-cross the valley), Mont Blanc provides a “rain shadow” effect not unlike the one Alsace sees from its Vosges range. Summers up here are drier and warmer than you might expect, although the diurnal swings—daytime heat spikes followed by cool nights—are extreme.
To qualify for the Torrette Supérieur DOC, the Petit Rouge grape must comprise a minimum of 70% of the blend. Laurent, with just five acres of old-vine (40-60 years) parcels, incorporates 75%, rounding out the rest with two other indigenous grapes: Fumin and Vien de Nus. Attaching “Supérieur” to Torrette also means the wine must hit a higher alcohol threshold and age longer, which Laurent easily achieves. After hand-harvesting the crop, this full-bodied yet wonderfully graceful wine aged for 12 months in 1,500-liter wooden vats. It was then transferred to stainless steel tanks for another year before bottling.
Although their first vintage was 2014 and I’ve only tasted two of the five releases, these wines have the “it” factor and their 2018 Torrette Supérieur is destined for greatness. It is a gargantuan, gastronomic blend that reveals a dark ruby-purple that stains the glass. These are wines for people that enjoy lush, full-bodied reds pulsing with energy. I have to believe there's something about the Italian Alps and its ancient terroir that lifts today’s wine to another level: this is absolutely bursting with powerful black and blue fruits that are accented by red-fruited liqueurs. Give it 30 minutes in a decanter and you’ll also uncover crushed gravel, pisco, mountain herbs, wild purple flowers, rose water, and a touch of exotic spices. You’ll be transfixed by the intensity of each layer, and then completely dumbfounded by the finesse-driven, mineral-flecked finish of each sip. Enjoy over the next 2-5 years, in large Burgundy stems, and be sure to always revel in this rarefied, utterly delicious ‘garagiste’ red every time the cork is pulled. Cheers!
