Perhaps some of you remember this massive, decades-old lineup of verticals that Drake Whitcraft, Master Sommelier Brian McClintic, and myself had the pleasure of tasting two years ago. Well, had today’s 2018 Pence Ranch “Clone 115” been a part of that lineup at the time, it would’ve been vying for first place on the podium. It’s wines sculpted exactly like this that represent the very best of elegant, authentically old-school Pinot Noir. These wines always have something profound to say, without ever raising their voice, which is why they slip right into elite, around-the-world Pinot Noir tastings with ease.

Having learned the craft from his tradition-minded father, as well as the legend Burt Williams of Williams Selyem—perhaps the most historically important name in domestic Pinot Noir—Drake Whitcraft’s creations have become especially beloved throughout sommelier circles and earned him a top spot among California’s trendiest producers. So what’s the secret to becoming a Pinot Noir superstar? You seek out great vineyard sites (Pence Ranch), planted to the best Dijon clones (115), and from them craft organic, nonintervention wines with marked terroir character (today’s offer). No matter how you look at it, this 2018 bottling from Whitcraft is world-class wine, on par with some of my current favorites from Burgundy. Given its extremely limited production—only 88 cases were produced and 15 remain—we are only able to offer up to six bottles per person. If you collect wine in any capacity, you must own Whitcraft.