Skipstone will tell you that their inaugural bottling of Preface “provides an introduction to their estate vineyard” but I have no problem taking it a few steps—or a flight—further: If you want an affordable luxury red raised by winemaking legend Philippe Melka, today’s 2017 is the smartest investment you can make. Look at any elite
château or “Bordeaux Blend” estate dominating the headlines and almost all of them have a “second label” that still costs more than what most consumers could ever imagine spending. But here on the western slopes of the Mayacamas range, deep in the world-famous, Napa-adjacent Alexander Valley, Melka and his team have emerged with a Certified Organic, deeply hedonistic Bordeaux-inspired blend that costs nearly 2.5x less than their flagship.
And they haven’t sacrificed an iota of quality, either. It comes from seven hand-selected barrels originally destined for Skipstone’s top-tier $165 cuvée—but instead, they were separated from the pack, blended together, and aged for 19 months to create today’s first-ever bottling of “Preface.” I must reiterate again just how much value you’re getting at this almost-too-generous price: Melka is a Bordeaux-blending legend who has experience crafting wines worth hundreds and thousands; Alexander Valley is a globally renowned terroir; and this 2017 debut firmly establishes Skipstone’s emergence and immediate dominance into the highly buzzed-about “second label” arena. But, really, I prefer to discard the term “second” altogether because “Preface” oozes first-class pedigree all the way. Serve it blind alongside the most famous and expensive names of Napa if you don’t believe me!
Skipstone thoroughly believes that “cultiness”—and the prohibitive prices they engender—are not the focus here. What comes first is respect for the earth, followed by the unrivaled winemaking expertise of Philippe Melka, a man who everyone would enlist if there were enough hours in the day. But even if Skipstone doesn’t consider this heart-stopping wine a “Cult Cab,” it sure does feel like one: It has the exclusivity, the star-studded cast, the opulent feel, and that extraordinary ability to bring a quiet over the dinner table. This is for those of you who love the richness, density, and layers found in wines like Bryant, Harlan, and other attention-grabbing labels.
Fahri Diner and his wife, Constance, purchased Skipstone Ranch in 2001 and immediately set out to work making world-class wine as naturally as possible. Skipstone is Certified Organic through CCOF and they operate accordingly: “Nothing stands above our devoted partnership with the earth. This is more than a commitment to the vineyard and quality of our fruit, we believe it’s the right thing to do for our planet and future generations.” They don’t say this lightly either: Skipstone welcomes insects and predatory birds, uses organic compost, plants a dizzying number of cover crops (oats, peas, beans), and eschews chemicals of any form. They also make olive oil (Fahri is a proud Cypriot) and an impressive sparkling wine with the help of Champagne house Diebolt-Vallois—one of my favorite Blanc de Blancs producers.
Skipstone’s 200-acre property is planted to 30 acres of vines in curving valleys and steep hillsides within Alexander Valley—a short drive northwest of the border with Napa. There’s a dizzying number of soils, elevations, and temperature swings throughout their holdings, and these microclimates can make for some meticulous farming and hectic harvest schedules. Despite the chaos, Skipstone’s dedicated team somehow turns out a pristine, Certified Organic crop every year. Back at the winery, the handpicked grapes ferment on their skins, sometimes over a month, and the resulting wine is then transferred into a small army of French oak barrels.
Following 19 months of aging, each barrel was tasted and seven—many which were filled with succulent Merlot—were deemed to be set aside and blended together for the inaugural production of “Preface.” Why? Melka deemed them more accessible and inviting. So, when you think about it, you’re paying $70 for a $165 wine, simply so you can enjoy it sooner. And let’s be honest: Many of you were planning on opening your bottles within the next year or two anyway!
In the glass, the wine reveals a dense dark purple with brilliant ruby hues. It delivers a simultaneous surge of ripe berry fruit, oak spice, and underlying savoriness in the aromatic form of Chambord, Bing cherry, spiced plums, licorice, bay leaf, tobacco, cinnamon, cacao, truffle, underbrush, cigar box, cedar, and crushed stones. Richly layered and impressively agile on the palate, the wine soars with luxuriously dense textures that pulse with energy. There is no excess alcohol or extraction that many expensive Bordeaux blends fall victim to—Melka is too skilled for that. This is all about the harmony, lift, and opulence, and I bet it will fool a number of connoisseurs into calling it a multi-hundred-dollar wine. After a minimum 30-minute decant, savor in Bordeaux stems over an evening and stow your remaining bottles for enjoyment over the next decade-plus. Cheers!
