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Domaine de la Meulière, Chablis 1er Cru, “Les Fourneaux”

Burgundy, France 2017 (750mL)
$42.00
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Fruit
Earth
Body
Tannin
Acid
Alcohol

Domaine de la Meulière, Chablis 1er Cru, “Les Fourneaux”

We taste (and offer) a lot of Chablis wine around here, and one trend we’ve been noticing is that the top-tier wines are displaying levels of layered opulence not traditionally associated with this part of Burgundy. Part of this is a string of relatively generous vintages from 2015-17; part of it is likely climate change; and part of it is a more careful, conscientious approach to viticulture in a place once known for chemical farming and widespread mechanized harvesting.
I’m still a sucker for austere, tightly wound Chablis, but today’s curvy seductress from Domaine de la Meulière had everyone around here swooning. Not only could this very well-priced Premier Cru wine easily eclipse many Chablis Grand Crus, it wouldn’t be out of place in the hallowed hills of Puligny-Montrachet, either. Sommeliers are constantly asked to name their “favorite” grape varieties—which I always say is like choosing among your children—but when a white Burgundy “hits” like this one, not just with minerality and freshness but with a silky, fleshy texture to boot, it’s awfully tough not to anoint Chardonnay king. This one is going to knock your socks off, believe me!
I’ll add another factor influencing this ’17s sumptuous flavors and texture: The “Les Fourneaux” Premier Cru, which is situated near the village of Fleys on the “right bank” of the Serein River, a short distance upstream from Chablis’ famed band of Grand Cru vineyards. Whereas the Grand Crus have a southwesterly aspect, the Les Fourneaux site has a nearly full-south exposure, enabling it to absorb all-day sun; the name translates as “furnace,” or “oven,” which is a little ironic given Chablis’ reputation as a cool climate, and the many producers who bottle a wine from the site tend to describe the wines as some of the most luscious and approachable in their lineups.

Domaine de la Meulière extends over 24 hectares of vineyards in and around Fleys, managed by brothers Vincent and Nicolas Laroche, who represent the fourth generation of their family at this property. Much of what the brothers emphasize in their descriptions of their estate centers around changes to their approach to viticulture—they’ve implemented more organic practices at the property, reducing the need for chemical inputs across the board. The stated goal is a simple one: healthier plants that produce better fruit. Can’t argue with that!

Today’s 2017 is one of nine different Premier Cru bottlings the Laroche brothers make, and after experiencing this one, I’m excited to seek out some of the others: Fermented and aged only in stainless steel (like most Chablis), it displays some of the attractive creaminess and heft of a wine aged in oak (it aged on its lees for 11 months, which is the likely source of that creaminess). In the glass, it’s a classic pale straw-gold with flecks of green, with perfumed aromas of green and yellow apple, lemon/lime blossoms, white peach, wildflowers, oyster shells, and wet stones. It is medium to medium-plus in body (on the Chablis scale), with terrific focus, nerve, and balance—its exceptional fruit concentration is in perfect tension with its acidity and minerality. Its accessibility now is a selling point for sure: Decant it 15 minutes before serving at 45-50 degrees in all-purpose white wine stems and you’ve got a pitch-perfect accompaniment for any seafood dish you whip up. This is one delicious bottle, so treat it right!
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Country
France
Region
Burgundy
Sub-Region
FranceChablis 1er Cru
Soil
Clay & Limestone
Farming
Organic Practices
Blend
Chardonnay 100%
Alcohol
13.0
OAK
None
TEMP.
45-50
Glassware
All-Purpose Whites
Drinking
Now-2027
Decanting
30 Minutes
Pairing
Poached Cod

France

Bourgogne

Beaujolais

Enjoying the greatest wines of Beaujolais starts, as it usually does, with the lay of the land. In Beaujolais, 10 localities have been given their own AOC (Appellation of Controlled Origin) designation. They are: Saint Amour; Juliénas; Chénas; Moulin-à Vent; Fleurie; Chiroubles; Morgon; Régnié; Côte de Brouilly; and Brouilly.

Southwestern France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux surrounds two rivers, the Dordogne and Garonne, which intersect north of the city of Bordeaux to form the Gironde Estuary, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The region is at the 45th parallel (California’s Napa Valley is at the38th), with a mild, Atlantic-influenced climate enabling the maturation of late-ripening varieties.

Central France

Loire Valley

The Loire is France’s longest river (634 miles), originating in the southerly Cévennes Mountains, flowing north towards Paris, then curving westward and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Nantes. The Loire and its tributaries cover a huge swath of central France, with most of the wine appellations on an east-west stretch at47 degrees north (the same latitude as Burgundy).

Northeastern France

Alsace

Alsace, in Northeastern France, is one of the most geologically diverse wine regions in the world, with vineyards running from the foothills of theVosges Mountains down to the Rhine River Valley below.

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