Everyone’s excited about the 2015 Brunello di Montalcino vintage, myself included, but if someone’s going to float a beautiful, critically acclaimed ’13 out there at today’s price, of course I’m going to jump on it—and you should, too. Not only does two more years of bottle age do wonders for a structured, long-aging wine like this, but 2013 is a fantastic vintage as well.
We offered La Serena’s ’13 a little over a year ago, to an enthusiastic response, but when another small batch became available, we didn’t hesitate: Another year in bottle has only enhanced a very classic expression of Montalcino Sangiovese from a very “classic” vintage, by which I mean a vintage marked by balance and elegance. As I’ve said many times (including last year’s La Serena offer), we’re still wedded to the notion that the “biggest” wines from Montalcino are the “best.” Not for me, and in fact many of the most-hyped vintages of the past (like 1997) produced big, high-scoring wines that didn’t end up paying off in the long term. In terms of 2013, Antonio Galloni of Vinous gave what I consider the best summation: “Clearly, the 2013 Brunellos will leave those weaned on big, rich, tannic, high-pH wines scratching their heads,” he wrote, “but those who prefer their Sangiovese restrained and refined will be grinning from ear to ear.” Take my (or Antonio’s, if you prefer) word for it: This is sleek, pitch-perfect Brunello just starting to enter its peak drinking window, and at $49 it is an absolute steal. Drink some now, cellar some for later…you really cannot go wrong here!
Since releasing their first La Serena wines in 1988, brothers Andrea and Marcello Mantengoli have farmed organically with an eye toward ‘official’ certification, and today’s wine has that coveted “Made from Organic Grapes” certification on its label. The La Serena estate, which has been in the Mantengoli family since 1933, is situated on the east side of the Montalcino hill, not far from Biondi-Santi and at an altitude of about 400 meters. They’ve grown their vineyard holdings to nine hectares, all of them planted to Sangiovese for either Rosso or Brunello di Montalcino, and their cellars, designed by Marcello Mantengoli, incorporate a wide assortment of “eco-friendly” features, including solar panels used for water heating and a geothermal system of heating and cooling the buildings.
The La Serena Brunello begins fermentation in stainless steel tanks and is then transferred to large wood casks of 30- to 40-hectoliter capacity to complete malolactic fermentation. Their aging regimen for their Brunello is three years in 20-hectoliter Slavonian oak barrels (and larger vessels), followed by further bottle aging before release, as is standard in Montalcino. In the glass, it’s a concentrated ruby/garnet extending to the rim, with explosive aromas of black cherry, red and black plums, blood orange peel, leather, tar, warm spices, espresso grounds, and underbrush. Medium-plus in body and firmly—but not aggressively—tannic, this is a “modern” style of Sangiovese that nevertheless retains a clear varietal identity. It’s a transporting Tuscan red that’s delicious to drink now but has a real precision to its balance, which is a sign of great aging potential: There’s enough freshness and structure here for a 20-year run at least, but that shouldn’t stop you from decanting a bottle about 60 minutes before serving at 60-65 degrees in large Bordeaux stems. I’m always inclined to throw a big ribeye on the grill for a wine like this, but let’s mix it up a bit—check out the attached recipe from chef Naomi Pomeroy and you’ll feel like you’re in the Montalcino countryside, drinking at a local osteria. As for your cellar (if you have one), this wine is poised to improve in both quality and resale value. It’s the stuff savvy collections are made of—don’t miss it!
