The village of Margaux, immortalized by its eponymous First Growth
château, has historically crafted some of the most polished, perfumed, and indulgent “Left Bank” Bordeaux money can buy. For that reason, shelling out triple digits (four for Château Margaux) has become the standard—not at Château des Eyrins. Power couple Xavier and Julie Gonet-Médeville purchased the estate in 2008 from Eric Grangerou, whose family were cellarmasters at Château Margaux for three generations, with the sole mission to provide
affordable world-class Bordeaux.
The sale came with 2.9 hectares spread out over three sites, the largest being a triangular parcel twice-bordered by Château Margaux real estate (with Château Palmer just across the street). What I’m getting at is Eyrins should be charging heaps more for their ~$65 Grand Vin, a wine that many subscribers have hoarded over the years. But that’s not what we’re offering today. What we’ve discovered is an even greater value: Xavier and Julie’s more affordable, smaller production second wine, “Closerie des Eyrins.” At $42, this luxurious 2015—a vintage that set a record for perfect scores—has me wondering if I ever need to spend money on their exorbitantly priced neighbors again. At five years old, this Bordeaux is about as perfect and authentic as it gets. It’s exactly what I’d sneak into a Classified Growth Tasting if I really wanted to crank up the excitement. Up to six bottles per person, and there aren’t many to pass around!
Not much older than myself, husband and wife Xavier and Julie are the owners of a boutique Champagne house in Côte des Blancs’ Les Mesnil; the inimitable Château Gilette in Sauternes; and today’s Château des Eyrins in Margaux, among others. Both worked under the direction of Julie’s parents for eight years until venturing out on their own in 2005. Now with ownership in what seems like every shade and style of wine (sparkling, white, red, sweet), they’ve quickly created a name for themselves. Though both of their families have rich histories in the business, Xavier and Julie’s focus on small-production, conscientiously-crafted wines are among the best of any “newcomer.”
Soils in Château des Eyrins’ vineyards are among the thinnest and most gravelly in all of Haut-Médoc, meaning their vines have deep-reaching roots—great for absorbing nutrients and groundwater. Grapes are harvested by hand and fermentation is carried out in stainless steel tanks with a three-week maceration. The blend is roughly 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Merlot and the wine ages in 50% new French oak and 50% stainless steel for 18 months before the two are fused together. If you’ve previously purchased Eyrins’ Grand Vin, you may be asking what’s the difference between the two? “Closerie des Eyrins” comes from their younger vines, but other than that, the blend, percentage of new oak, and aging regimen are almost identical. Truly, this $42 Left Bank powerhouse is one of the great investments and values of Bordeaux!
And while this 2015 “Closerie des Eyrins” thunders across the palate with rich polish and dark-fruited intensity, it is less brawny and more elegant than its bigger “Grand Vin” brother. Still, there is immense structure and luxurious power at play that only wines from Margaux can produce. Breathtakingly pure aromas of blackcurrants, black plum skin, black raspberry, black cherry liqueur dominate the foreground before paving way for crushed black stone, wet gravel, tobacco leaf, cedar box, tar, fresh baking spice, and savory herbs. The palate reveals a rich, multi-textural Cabernet blend that perfectly balances power and grace. Every sip expands upon each layer of dark fruit, crushed minerals, and savory earth before culminating with a resounding, long finish. Despite the thrill it brings now, a promising future lies ahead of this wine: After about 60 minutes in a decanter, it starts hitting its stride, but if it’s a classic, mature Margaux you’re looking for, save a few bottles for 2025-2035. Château des Eyrins is pedigreed Bordeaux that can hang with the big boys, so be sure to savor every glass!
