The 2015 Château Belregard-Figeac “Tellus Vinea” is a textbook example of heritage-style red Bordeaux. With verdant, organically- and hand-farmed vineyards in a 20-30 minute radius surrounding the center of Saint Emilion Grand Cru, this family bottles Bordeaux in a style that recalls the region’s mid-1900s heyday. So let me be clear: If you seek sticky-sweet, 100% new oak, “modern” Bordeaux, please stop reading. On the other hand, if you long for deeply mineral and soil-driven reds that are as complex as they are thirst-quenching, then prepare to fall in love with Belregard-Figeac. This small estate has been owned and worked by multiple generations of the same family since 1853. Two brothers, Jacques and Jean-Paul, currently oversee the vines and cellar, with Jacques’ son, Christophe, gradually assuming greater responsibility. And while the face of this respected family changes with each passing generation, their house style remains constant: timeless, classic red Bordeaux.

Belregard-Figeac’s vineyards hug the hills that gently roll out from the Grand Cru village of Saint-Émilion. The small parcel that produces this wine is located in the tiny hamlet of Juillac, which overlooks the banks of the Dordogne river some 20 minutes east of Saint-Émilion’s cobblestone streets. This microscopic village, with barely 200 inhabitants, is a prime location for the organically grown Merlot (60%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (40%) vines that comprise the family’s “Tellus Vinea” cuvée. Belregard-Figeac is undoubtedly best known for their limited Saint-Emilion Grand Cru bottling, which is released after extended aging in barrel and bottle (typically 4-5 years following harvest). Still, this younger “sneak preview” cuvèe, which historically lands only two years after vintage, is always worth seeking out—particularly in a special vintage like 2015, it punches well above its weight.  

The 2015 “Tellus Vinea” cascades into the glass with a bright ruby/crimson center and magenta and ruby tones at the rim. This wine’s bright and refined appearance forecasts its character: From the moment the cork is popped, there’s no shortage of definition, balance, and vivacity. On the nose, a taut mix of plum, cherry and blackberry notes lead the charge, but they soon melt into this wine’s classic terroir character: wet stone, fresh herbs, morels, english tea, mocha, graphite, and rawhide. Even in its infancy this wine screams Bordeaux! But again, I’m going to keep stressing how brilliant an investment this bottle is, and that its true glory will emerge with patience. If you can summon the discipline to stash away a case or two, I promise it will continue blossoming and improving well into the 2020s. It’s always exciting to share an older, high-ticket Chablis or Barolo with friends, but, for me, unearthing a budget-priced “sleeper” like this with my fiancé on a Tuesday night is even more satisfying. There is no vinous experience comparable to properly aged Bordeaux and this wine promises many years of exotic truffle, dried flowers, forest floor, savory herb and exotic spice aromas. 

That said, this bottle is soft and luscious right now and can be enjoyed without any preparation. If you have the time, I recommend decanting for one hour and serving at cellar temperature in (you guessed it) Bordeaux stems. All this wine’s youthful angles and freshness are on display, so don’t hesitate to pair it with an assertive dish. I think it’s a dream companion to this classic steak tartare preparation. Tartare is a perfect, simple, and often overlooked companion for classic French reds, and hey, with all the money you save with this incredible bargain of a wine, why not spring for a “luxury” beef cut like a well-marbled New York strip or tenderloin? Makes perfect sense to me. Cheers!