Don’t be fooled by Sarazinière’s modest cellar, small vineyard holdings, and straightforward prices—these are top-notch “insider” Burgundies for connoisseurs and wine geeks who settle for nothing less than the genuine article. But before we get into today’s gem, it’s important to stress that “insider” is not meant to be taken lightly—especially when it comes to White Burgundy, the standard by which all other Chardonnay is judged.
Quite simply, this fabled region is the grand arbiter of terroir: Inspired by the Cistercian monks of yore, distinct single-vineyard wines reign supreme here, and centuries of division, expansion, and complex family trees have resulted in a sprawling jigsaw puzzle that would take two lifetimes to solve. So, it’s understandable that the small Domaine de la Sarazinière could easily slip past anyone’s watchful eye undetected. My sole job, however, is to make sure that doesn’t happen. Theirs are generous, cerebral wines that so clearly speak to their home terroir of Mâcon-Bussières. With Puligny-like tension, Chablis-like freshness, and Mâcon-like ripeness, “Le Pavillon” seems to pull the best traits from every major Chardonnay stronghold in Burgundy—all for $29. It can’t be found anywhere else online, either. That’s what I call a true insider wine.
The world of wine is becoming more privy to quality Mâcon with each passing day, and the arrival of Burgundy titans such as Lafon and Leflaive drives the point home even further. As with every region, there are small pockets of greatness throughout the appellation, and the village of Bussières is among them.
Created by Claude Seigneuret in 1926, the Domaine de la Sarazinière estate name stems from the small lieu-dit surrounding the original family home in the aforementioned village of Bussières. Today, the father-son team of Phillippe and Guillaume Trebignaud endeavors to capture the terroir and the character of each vintage. Strict non-interventionists, they craft their wines as nature intended; although uncertified, the duo utilizes organic practices and are convinced that only the most biodiverse soils can communicate the true terroir of their vineyards.
For “Le Pavillon,” that entails two small parcels in Bussières, one planted to 70-year-old vines and the other to 15-year-old vines. Following a rigorous sorting and a manual harvest in the fall of 2018, the Chardonnay fermented on native yeasts and then aged entirely in stainless steel for 12 months. It was bottled unfined with minimal additions of sulfur.
Sarazinière’s “Le Pavillon” is a brilliant marriage of two Bussières vineyards, young and old, and the lush, sun-soaked 2018 vintage. It pours a radiant silver-yellow in the glass and erupts with a gustatory orchestra of crisp yellow apple, lemon rind, melon skin, white peach, damp white flowers, and a cascade of crushed limestone. A taut, mineral-filled Burgundy arrives on the palate and delivers a vibrantly refreshing backbone of acidity and fleshy ripeness that defies its stainless steel élevage. Serve in Burgundy stems around 50 degrees, pour heavy, and drink often because this is the classy wine I want to enjoy in stressful times like this. Because of its “drinkability,” you won’t hate yourself for opening it too soon and because of its affordability, you certainly won’t mind opening another right after. Cheers!