Today, three phenomenons have merged into one powerful
cuvée: This severely limited offer is (1) one of France’s best-kept secrets; (2) a SommSelect “first;” and (3) a hauntingly delicious red that defies price-to-quality convention.
The little-known secret is Cairanne, a newly minted appellation exploding with low-dollar, awe-inspiring wines that have prompted
Decanter to label it as “the source of some of the best wines in the Southern Rhône.” We’ve fallen under Cairanne’s alluring spell too, so we were beyond excited to unveil today’s mature micro-bottling of “La Bousquette,” a single vineyard packed with primitive, gnarled roots buried in Burgundian clay-limestone soil. In fact, proprietor Romain Roche only unleashes the preternatural soul of this prized site in vintages that he deems exceptional, and 2014 perfectly fit the mold. What’s more, with vines clocking in at 120 years old, this hallowed site is the oldest vineyard in the entire appellation—how often can you say you’ve experienced a wine like that? Now with 5+ years of undisturbed aging, this sublime Rhône masterpiece is among the greatest ‘steals’ in classic French wine. Total production maxes out at 250 cases, as evidenced by the microscopic fraction we have to offer you today. If you love French wine in any capacity, this is an absolute must.
Both Domaine Roche and the appellation of Cairanne are fairly new institutions, but there is no lack of pedigree from either. Coming from a family of winegrowers, a young Romain Roche stepped onto the scene in the late 2000s and decided to try his hand at sustainable farming and classic winemaking. He selected a handful of hectares from his father’s plots, including today’s ancient “La Bousquette” vineyard, and when Romain’s 2010 vintage put Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate into a frenzy, he became a budding sensation in Cairanne.
For those unfamiliar with Cairanne, it’s time to get acquainted: Wine has been produced here for hundreds and hundreds of years, with archeological evidence dating back to the Romans. More recently, however, winemakers have been fighting hard to get recognized as a standalone appellation. After years of lobbying, their wish was granted: As of 2016, they’re officially an AOC, on par with the likes of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Gigondas.
Having been gifted a highly favorable growing season in 2014, Romain gently harvested his ancient Grenache and Carignan vines by hand. In the winery, all grapes were de-stemmed and both varieties (~80% Grenache, ~20% Carignan) fermented together in concrete vessels. Following, the wine continued maturing in these same vessels for 12 months.
By eschewing oak, the complexities and purities of these 120-year-old vines are able to shine in the glass. The wine pours a deep ruby with slight magenta hues and immediately erupts with a parade of purple and red flowers, crushed stones, garrigue, and dark brambly fruits. But despite all of its intoxicating aromas and rich mouthfeel, this 2014 “La Bousequette” is al all about finesse. You’ll be shocked by the simultaneous interplay of raw power, depth, and weightless mouthfeel. Again, we have ancient Grenache vines and hands-off, concrete aging to thank for that. The palate is medium-plus bodied and avoids any (1) excess heat, (2) chunky, rugged edges, and (3) overblown fruit that can be found in a slew of *much* more expensive Southern Rhône reds. You can either decant this for 5-10 minutes or simply allow it to rest in your large Burgundy stems for about 15 minutes. Either way, you’re going to experience a deeply layered and impressively fresh French value for the ages. Enjoy!