Welcome to a world we couldn’t have imagined when our doors first opened six years ago: A substantial drop of Grand Cru Champagne from Benoît Lahaye, among the world’s most respected, talented, and high-in-demand producers. His micro-production cult bottlings categorically reign as some of the most spellbindingly natural and authentic Champagnes in modern history. Certified Organic and Biodynamic. Manual plowing with his Auxois horse. Spontaneous fermentation in barrel. Low-to-no sulfur additions. Tiny, handmade production. There’s a reason his name reverberates off every upscale wine bar, decorates the finest wine lists, and is proudly displayed in the cellars of fine wine collectors—but only in severely limited quantities.
Over the course of six years, we’ve emailed, called, texted, even personally visited Champagne a number of times, and all that has resulted in 0 bottles. It’s been a grueling uphill battle that has at times felt longer and more hopeless than the Hundred Years’ War. All the while, I’ve found myself tasting a rarefied bottle of Lahaye here and there which has certainly not helped tame my desire to acquire them. Thankfully, all that changes now. Today’s Brut Nature is the only proper introduction into the hypnotizing rabbit hole that is Benoît Lahaye: Culled from his biodynamically farmed vines in Grand Crus Bouzy and Ambonnay, this Pinot Noir-dominant wine is a heart-stoppingly honest expression of natural Champagne. If you’re a true admirer of the unique terroir, regality, and identity of this world-renowned region, Lahaye’s Brut Nature is an absolute essential.
Immortalized, as defined by Lexico, means to “confer enduring fame upon,” and by that interpretation, Lahaye deserves to be immortalized in Champagne’s history books, as he is leading the surging wave of natural farming/winemaking. This is a man who has spent his entire adult life committed to his 4.8 hectares, four of which are located in the Grand Cru locales of Bouzy (home base) and Ambonnay. Benoît joined his family estate in 1993 and immediately began walking the road towards natural farming. Today, after being fully organic for the past 17 years and fully biodynamic for 10, Lahaye’s champagnes are the epitome of terroir-authentic wines.
The overwhelming majority of Lahaye’s 4.8 hectares are planted to Pinot Noir, and today’s Brut Nature reflects that with an 80% Pinot Noir, 20%Chardonnay blend. The Pinot is culled from his vines in Bouzy and the Chardonnay from next-door Ambonnay. One could make a compelling argument—and would have little-to-no dissenters—that both are the top two Grand Crus in Montagne de Reims.
Through the growing season, all work is painstakingly carried out by hand. Herb infusions and organic manures are applied to combat the wrath of nature and his stout Auxois horse, Tamise, can be found plowing every row of vines. In the winery, each parcel naturally ferments in old French oak barrels and malolactic is never forced. If it happens, it happens. Today’s Brut Nature, a blend of the 2016, ‘15, and ‘14 vintages, matured in bottle on its fine lees for just under three years before disgorgement and a zero-gram dosage in November of 2019. Our ridiculously small allocation arrived at our warehouse in February of 2020.
This is the type of Champagne that can change your perspective—it certainly did mine. To be quite honest, I don’t always love Brut Nature wines. They can be austere, even abrasive at times, and I’ve found many tend to lack the depth and overall pleasure of those that do have a dosage. Benoît Lahaye throttled that mindset: This is an insanely impressive wine that showcases the immense power and subtle grace of Grand Cru Bouzy Pinot Noir. There are no laser beams to be found in this bottle, no mouth-puckering acidity—it’s all about harmony, balance, and beautiful texture. That said, there is a process to enjoying it: In my experience, Lahaye’s wine only gains further complexity and generosity as it exposes itself to oxygen. So, serve this in Burgundy stems, around 55 degrees, but allow it some time in the glass. If you dip your nose in when the mousse is still frothing, you’ll get blown back by a defensive line of powerful, aggressive aromatics.
Allow the mousse to relax, even give it a few swirls to dissipate some of the carbonation, and approach it after a few minutes. At this point, the purest fruit, florals, and minerality unfurl like a blooming flower and embrace your senses with notes of crisp red apple, black plum, redcurrant, black cherries, damp rose, forest floor, crushed chalk, wet stones, and oyster shell. The palate is swirling with supernatural energy that is present in each brightly layered, red-fruited, mineral-studded sip, and the finish leaves you with a long-lasting savoriness that speaks to the profundity of pure, biodynamic farming and a minimalist winemaking genius in the cellar. We hope you take advantage of this incredibly rare opportunity to experience one of the great natural Champagne minds of our time!
