Emmerich Knoll’s 15 hectares around the villages of Unterloiben and Dürnstein are considered to be the top areas in the Wachau—which makes “Pffafenberg” something of a rarity. This steep, terraced, hillside site shares the same slope as Wachau’s famed “Loibenberg,” but is technically considered a part of the Kremstal so the Wachau’s Federspiel/Smaragd designations cannot be used. Knoll makes two Rieslings from this glorious site: a “Kabinett” and “Selection,” the latter of which is equivalent to a Smaragd. This is luxurious and full-bodied, bordering on hedonistic. It’s the wine you (1) enjoy during a hearty main course, (2) impress your wine friends with, and/or (3) lay down for longterm aging. This is among their rarest and most limited bottlings.