As I’ve said countless times, the hierarchical classification of Burgundy vineyards is generally pretty reliable, but there are plenty of anomalies. And those anomalies are our bread and butter at SommSelect. Wines from prestige vineyards don’t always validate their prestige prices, and conversely, there are all sorts of unranked sites out there that don’t get their proper due. “Les Maison-Dieu,” a
lieu-dit (named site) in the village of Pommard, is a striking example of the latter, as today’s 2016 from Thierry Violot-Guillemard confirms.
At one time, this vineyard was classified as “village” Pommard, then it was changed to “Bourgogne,” but really, it transcends either one. By a lot. The Maison-Dieu parcel is in striking distance of several Pommard Premier Crus, and along with its exceptional elegance and purity, what struck me about Violot-Guillemard’s 2016 is the wine’s clear, unmistakable Pommard identity. It’s a master class in what Pommard should taste like—a classic expression, but in a style that is accessible now rather than being hard and mineral, as many Pommards are in their youth. Most of the time you have to spend twice as much to get this kind of education—but not today.
Fifth-generation Thierry Violot-Guillemard works the 15 acres of vines he owns in Pommard, Volnay, Meursault, Monthélie, and Beaune with his son, Joannes. In Pommard, their Maison-Dieu lieu-dit sits just down the road from the Chateau de Pommard on the southern edge of town. The name is taken from a building that welcomed the pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela and acted as a hospice that cared for the sick up to the 17th century. Prior to 1937, this well-situated parcel was declared as Pommard.
The Pommard appellation stretches from the border of Beaune to Volnay and vines are planted in ancient alluvium deposits on the lower ground, while clay-limestone soils are found in the mid-slopes, and Jurassic marl and brown calcareous limestone reside in the highest elevations. A generous helping of iron turns the soils a vivid red—and that mineral component defines one of the most profound qualities of Pommard wines.
Not for the faint of heart, Pommard can be powerful and virile. Even Les Miserables author Victor Hugo likened them to “night in combat with day.” Case in point is this Violot-Guillemard Bourgogne, which owes its power to the same soils you find some 400 yards away in the Premier Cru “Les Grands Epenots,” which is known for a higher concentration of alluvial matter (i.e. gravel) and iron in its soils. That combination tends to produce a burlier, more muscular style of Burgundy Pinot Noir, but in the case of Thierry Violot-Guillemard, organic farming and a deft hand in the cellar has yielded a softer, elegant and sexy style that reminds me of a few serious Premier Cru Pommard wines that cost much more. It even calls to mind a less tannic, youthful Volnay, offering up a generous helping of wild strawberry fruit.
Aged for one year in used oak barrels, and clocking in at just 12.5% alcohol, this 2016 shows bright ruby red to garnet with a tinge of mauve at the rim. Aromas of raspberry, cherry pit, and plum are met with ample freshness and verve. There are just enough savory spices and sous bois (undergrowth) notes to make it serious. On the palate, the fruit is ripe and intense, but light on its feet, round and becomes almost velvety in the mid-palate. The tannins are resolved and well-integrated, supporting the surprising depth and extremely long length. Decidedly “Pommard,” it has mineral structure and juiciness and no hard edges; dare I say this is a Volnay lover’s Pommard? It is a sheer joy to drink, and I’d suggest having it alongside classic Burgundian fare like coq au vin or boeuf bourguignon (if you’ve “been there, done that,” the attached recipe should be a nice change of pace). Serve Les Maison-Dieu at 60 degrees in Burgundy stems after a 30- to 45-minute decant, and prepare to have your mind blown: There aren’t many $35 red Burgundies that deliver at this level. Enjoy!
