Today’s wine is one of the best examples I can give to illustrate the “Old World” sensibility that informs so many of the great Pinot Noirs of the Willamette Valley. It’s a wonderfully pure, complex wine that commands your attention, but by the same token, it is ridiculously enjoyable—which speaks volumes about the partnership behind it.
J. Christopher is the brainchild of two very different wizards of winemaking—Jay Christopher Somers and Ernst Loosen. They are the physical embodiments of the New and Old Worlds, respectively: Jay plays lead guitar in a band called Portland Cement while “Ernie” is heir to a German winemaking dynasty. However different their backgrounds might be, J. Christopher unites them in a common vision: sustainably farmed Pinot Noir of superior quality. Today’s ‘Basalte’ showcases the soils and microclimate of the Chehalem Mountains, where they own 40 acres of biodynamically farmed vines. “Basalte” is a labor of love, which is readily evident in each sip: not a single corner is cut, not a single process rushed. It’s a fiercely individual Pinot Noir that straddles the divide between old and new with real grace. I can talk about how Oregon’s finest rival Burgundy all day, or you could simply taste this wine and see for yourself (I recommend the latter).
Meeting Ernst Loosen once is enough to cement him in your memory forever: his curly hair, round glasses, and infectious laugh are internationally famous. Ernie was born into a great tradition of German winemaking, and his Dr. Loosen estate in the Mosel has been in his family for more than 200 years. Ernie studied archeology in school, inspired by the many ancient Roman ruins dotting the banks of the Mosel. He was called back to wine in 1988 as the heir apparent of his father’s estate—none of his siblings were old or interested enough to take over the family business. Ernie applied himself to the challenge with his usual boundless enthusiasm and in the years since has grown the Loosen name to international recognition. His passion for wine is contagious. He’s a collaborator, a historian, and a pioneer.
It stands to reason that Ernie started poking around Oregon, researching different terroirs and looking for opportunities to collaborate with like-minded winemakers. He eventually connected with Jay Somers, who’d been making noteworthy Oregon Pinot Noir since 1996. The two joined forces: Ernst as owner, Jay as winemaker and steward of the estate. They purchased 40 acres in the Chehalem Mountains, where soils are a mix of ancient marine sediments and, as the wine’s name indicates, Columbia River basalt. They aren’t biodynamically certified (despite using the methodologies), since Jay doesn’t believe in certifications. There’s no doubt that he and Ernie are rule-breakers, and J. Christopher is a result of their philosophical exchange. These two share a fundamental belief that great wine begins in the winemaker’s head, and every subsequent decision should be in the service of that initial vision. Thankfully, their vision is of delicious Pinot Noir, and we get to drink it.
The most important ingredient in all of J. Christopher’s wine is patience. Both Ernst and Jay firmly believe in the natural pace of fermentation, a path of ‘minimal intervention’ which—if you’ve invested properly in your vineyards—begets the purest expression of your terroir. The laborious ballet of dry-farming without pesticides, herbicides, or fertilizers pays off in the winery with robust indigenous fermentations. Grapes are destemmed before wines advance entirely at their own pace with minimal intervention on the part of the winemakers. Malolactic fermentation occurs spontaneously and wines are barreled for 20 months in 25% new French oak. Today’s sublime 2015 was bottled unfined and unfiltered.
In the glass, the wine’s a limpid ruby-red, throwing off glimmers of garnet as a result of four years in bottle. There’s a natural touch of coolness that rises off the wine, mingling with musky berry notes of cranberry skin and sappy raspberry. Smoky minerals, wet charcoal, and underbrush complicate the cheerful, fruit-forward nose. There’s a lot of earth in this wine and those sweeter notes turn decidedly peppery and savory on the palate. Bitter cherry and black tea vie for attention. Fine-grained tannins build slowly through a long, mineral finish with medium-high acidity. Basalte may have been influenced by the Old World but this is classic Willamette, toeing the line between lush and lean all in a single sip. Decant the wine for 30-45 minutes before serving in big Burgundy stems at 60 degrees and serve with an enormous slice of savory winter vegetable pie. Bonus points if you fold some lard into the crust.
