From a qualitative perspective, today’s richly textured dry Riesling is investment-grade white wine. It already has some significant bottle age but is clearly capable of aging much longer. It comes from a celebrated Grand Cru vineyard in the Alsatian village of Ribeauvillé, where the local cooperative—the Cave de Ribeauvillé—has made wines since 1895. It doesn’t get more pedigreed than that, and yet...look at the price! I’d have been inclined to offer this wine based on its “on paper” stats alone, but then I tasted it, and the deal was quickly sealed.
The “Osterburg” Grand Cru is a sun-drenched vineyard known for producing Rieslings of serious substance, and who better than the village’s namesake winery to bring out the site’s very best? Longtime SommSelect subscribers know that I’m a big proponent of Alsatian Riesling, which, at the Grand Cru level especially, is among the world’s most powerful, mouth-filling expression of this noble variety. Today’s 2012 is a pitch-perfect example, with sumptuous, mineral depth balanced by palate-enlivening freshness. Quite frankly, Alsace does not get its proper due as a source of world-class white wine—which might explain the modest price. If you’ve been overlooking the region, I can’t think of a better way to re-acquaint yourself than with this luminous 2012 Osterberg. It’ll bring you back for good, believe me!
In the glass, it displays a concentrated golden core with green reflections at the rim. On the nose, the aromatics are intense and high-toned, with characteristics of apricot, green peach pit, and secondary aromas of green mango peel, dried wild mushrooms, honey and a touch of raw almond. On the palate, it is bone-dry and full-bodied—a wine that makes a lasting impression on the palate and the finish, with many more years of delicious drinking ahead of it. For a delicious and über-classic pairing, serve it with choucroute garnie. This hearty dish, made with smoked ham hock, sausage, potatoes, and sauerkraut is a staple of Alsatian cuisine. I’d suggest decanting this wine 30-45 minutes before serving in all-purpose white stems at 50 degrees; any cooler and you’ll dull the wine’s brilliant aromatics, which are, of course, the key to everything. It bears repeating that the quality-for-price here is simply off the charts. Taste it and you’ll agree. Cheers!