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Champagne Renaudin, “L’Espiegle” Millésime

Champagne, France 1996 (1500mL)
$225.00
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Champagne Renaudin, “L’Espiegle” Millésime

Unless your mode of transportation requires a helipad, no one gets to drink ‘96 Champagne whenever they want—let alone a magnum of it. This legendary vintage has been inscribed in the annals of all-time greats and was accordingly met with incendiary demand upon release. Few survived. But Champagne Renaudin had a trick up its sleeve—namely, keeping a small stash of magnums in their dark cellar, away from the public’s outstretched hands.
And so they did, for years and years, until they were all but forgotten about. This now-23-year-old giant was disgorged in the cellars of Champagne Renaudin just months ago, meaning the myriad qualities of the legendary 1996 vintage have been exquisitely preserved over the past two decades. The working philosophy at Renaudin is to “let time take its course” and if today’s offer doesn’t epitomize that, it’s time to reevaluate your standards! I can’t think of any other producer who is releasing something of this ground-shaking magnitude. So, take advantage of these just-disgorged, straight-from-the-cellar ‘96 magnums because their rarity—and the experience they bring—is unequalled. 
A note about the peculiar writing that wraps around the neck of the bottle: Renaudin originally planned to disgorge these at the end of 1999 to celebrate the new millennium. And, in a nod towards the colorful cultures around the globe, they etched “2000” in a number of different variations. When it came time, this small batch was accidentally left behind—and left undisturbed until the early part of 2019! 

Although it has passed through many hands and been rebuilt, Renaudin upholds the traditions of an ancient noble estate (Château de Conardins) that was first established in 1724, making it one of the oldest enterprises in all of Champagne. Today, they own 24 hectares—mostly Premier Cru Chardonnay—that are spread throughout villages in the Coteaux Sud d’Épernay and the Côte des Blancs. Most of their crop is sold off to the blue-chip houses, but a small portion does remain in-house for personal production. 

Their 1996 comes from 100% Premier Cru Chardonnay vines and was fermented in a combination of stainless steel and neutral barrels for eight months. Malolactic was avoided, but they did continuously stir the lees to add more texture to the acid-driven ‘96 vintage. Upon bottling in magnums in April of 1997, the wine remained unmoved for 22 years. It was disgorged earlier this year and dosed with six grams of sugar. Only 3,231 magnums were originally produced and only a few remain today.

A couple of things to keep in mind: (1) magnums mature slower since there's more liquid and less oxygen; (2) the few ‘96 Champagnes that still remain on the market and/or are in the possession of collectors will have oxidative qualities since they have long been disgorged and removed from their lees (which acts as a preservative). So, what you’re getting in today’s recently disgorged magnum are the inimitable qualities of this blockbuster vintage in its most pristine form. The wine reveals a dazzling yellow-gold core that shimmers with silver hues. Within moments, jaw-dropping notes of yellow apple, grilled peaches, pineapple, Mirabelle plum, lemon curd, honey, acacia, crushed almonds, Bosc pear, crushed chalk, and nuanced spices unfurl from the glass. It’s a richly layered Champagne that builds with the powerful acidity of ‘96 and the seductive profile of world-class Chardonnay. Because it spent so long on its lees, it’s near impossible to correctly identify this as a 23-year-old wine but quite simple to label it as one of the finest Champagne experiences out there. Further, there’s no rush to consume this: it was still firing on day three (with a Champagne stopper), and if choosing not to open your bottle, it will survive another decade. What a wine!!! For those splurging on Renaudin’s extraordinary ‘96 magnum, keep it going with a visit to your local market for some fresh caviar or check out the link to your right. Cheers!
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Country
France
Region
Champagne
Sub-Region
FranceCoteaux Sud d’Épernay
Soil
Chalk & Clay
Farming
Sustainable
Blend
Chardonnay 100%
Alcohol
12.0
OAK
Neutral Barrel Fermentation
TEMP.
55
Glassware
All-Purpose Stem
Drinking
Now-2026
Pairing
Caviar

France

Bourgogne

Beaujolais

Enjoying the greatest wines of Beaujolais starts, as it usually does, with the lay of the land. In Beaujolais, 10 localities have been given their own AOC (Appellation of Controlled Origin) designation. They are: Saint Amour; Juliénas; Chénas; Moulin-à Vent; Fleurie; Chiroubles; Morgon; Régnié; Côte de Brouilly; and Brouilly.

Southwestern France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux surrounds two rivers, the Dordogne and Garonne, which intersect north of the city of Bordeaux to form the Gironde Estuary, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The region is at the 45th parallel (California’s Napa Valley is at the38th), with a mild, Atlantic-influenced climate enabling the maturation of late-ripening varieties.

Central France

Loire Valley

The Loire is France’s longest river (634 miles), originating in the southerly Cévennes Mountains, flowing north towards Paris, then curving westward and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Nantes. The Loire and its tributaries cover a huge swath of central France, with most of the wine appellations on an east-west stretch at47 degrees north (the same latitude as Burgundy).

Northeastern France

Alsace

Alsace, in Northeastern France, is one of the most geologically diverse wine regions in the world, with vineyards running from the foothills of theVosges Mountains down to the Rhine River Valley below.

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