A quick look at Blain-Gagnard’s white Burgundy lineup will reveal their fanatical devotion to one of the world’s most cherished regions: They bottle three Grand Crus, four Premier Crus, and today’s “village-level,” all of which are located within the iconic commune of Chassagne-Montrachet. Looking for a Puligny or a Meursault? Knock on a different door because Blain-Gagnard is firmly committed to mastering this hallowed and historically rich Chardonnay terroir.
You all seemed to agree: Last month’s Grand Cru Bâtard-Montrachet offer sold out and instantly triggered a string of inquiring emails. So, we got on the horn and emerged with another one of their region-defining wines. Today’s Chassagne-Montrachet is the freakishly similar twin to last month’s imposing Grand Cru treasure. It’s from a seven-parcel blend of family-owned vines (30% of which are Premier Crus!) and is raised nearly identically in the winery. So, for all those who missed out on Blain-Gagnard’s rarefied Bâtard-Montrachet, either because of the exorbitant price or the sellout, let their mightily impressive village wine serve as the solution—at
one-fifth of the price! And, for the lucky few who pulled the trigger last month, today’s tremendous, mineral-loaded white Burgundy is what you want to savor in the interim while your blue-chip Grand Cru investment skyrockets in value and deliciousness. Note: Quantities for today’s Chassagne are unbelievably low. Only nine cases available!
Because of Burgundy’s global fame, many people who haven’t traveled there may think its bustling with tourism and bumper-to-bumper traffic. It couldn’t be more opposite: The quaint villages peppered along the Côte d’Or transport you back to a simpler time, where everyone in the town knew each other and everything was within walking distance. Chassagne-Montrachet is a shining example: Despite lying just south of the world-famous Grand Cru family of Montrachets, the village is home to just a few hundred people! As such, you’ll find several hyphenated “Gagnard” domaines, all of which own premium real estate and produce elite, small-batch wines.
Today, we’re fortunate enough to be offering Domaine Blain-Gagnard, which was formed in 1980 when Jean-Marc Blain married the youngest daughter of the esteemed Gagnard family. With the marriage came a dowry that was more valuable than gold itself: a handful of premium Chassagne-Montrachet vines, most notably a very small percentage of Grand Crus Bâtard-Montrachet, Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet, and Le Montrachet (in 1999).
Today’s 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet comes from their family-owned vines throughout the commune, with the oldest having been planted way back in 1932! Upon harvesting their low-yielding crop, the grapes are gently pressed and fermented. The resulting wine is then aged French barrels, 20% of which are new. This judicious touch of oak is key to Blain-Gagnard’s vividly pure style: Why mask this globally renowned terroir?
Not unlike Blain-Gagnard’s 2017 Bâtard-Montrachet ($325), their Chassagne requires a bit of patience if you want to extract the most pleasure from it. While you can certainly pull the cork and enjoy yourself a glass right away, we tracked our bottle over the course of an entire evening. Hour one was like watching an amateur win his first major event: It was raw, exciting, perhaps a bit disjointed. But by hour two it had shed all of its nervous energy and allowed us into the intoxicating world of classy, high-end white Burgundy. By hour five, the final glass delivered unspeakable depth: creamed yellow apple, pineapple core, white peach, Meyer lemon, toasted nuts, chalk, crushed stone, gardenia, and delicately woven baking spices. As long as it’s properly served in Burgundy stems around 55 degrees and allowed time to breathe, this provides every luscious fruit and tension-filled mineral that comes with the best white Burgundy. Authentic Chassagne-Montrachet from one of the greats? What a rare treat! For those thinking about stowing away a couple of bottles for the long haul, I commend you. These gems will hit full stride around their fifth birthday and should burst into 2030 without missing a beat. Cheers!
