French wine labels can be cryptic sometimes. Take, for example, the word “Eolithe” on the label of today’s wine from Château de Fosse-Sèche. Is that the name of a vineyard? Is it an homage to the winemaker’s mother? Neither would be a bad guess, but it is in fact a geological name for a chipped piece of flint.

With a little more digging, you learn why that’s significant, and special: Most vineyards in the Saumur and Saumur-Champigny wine regions are rooted in a porous yellow limestone called tuffeau, but Fosse-Sèche sits on a plateau of Jurassic-era flint. It is effectively an island unto itself, and the two brothers who run it, Adrien and Guillaume Pire, aim to be as transparent as possible in showcasing that unique soil. When I taste this wine, I think about walking a vineyard with a winemaker in the days leading up to harvest, sampling grapes off the vine and tasting a little vineyard dust along with the sweet juice. “Eolithe” is a smoky, tangy evocation of Fosse-Sèche’s special situation; not 20 minutes to the east is Clos Rougeard and its legendary Cabernet Francs, but this wine more than holds its own, especially when you consider their respective prices. From a biodynamic oasis in the village of Brossay, the Pire brothers are making some of the best wines in the region: This one is the perfect introduction to a property you’re going to want to know more about!

In the glass, the 2016 Eolithe is a deep, youthful ruby with hints of violet, with aromas that unfold in layers the longer the wine is open (for best results, give it a rough decanting at least 30 minutes before serving at 60-65 degrees in Burgundy stems). Aromas of black and red plums, cherries, black raspberries, violets, pepper, crushed rocks, and smoke carry over to a bright, quenching, medium-bodied palate. There are many kindred qualities to top-quality, naturally made Cru Beaujolais, with a similar iron-rich minerality to make your mouth water. The tension in this wine suggests it has many years of positive evolution ahead of it: People don’t often think of aging wines at this price point, but as Eolithe puts on a little weight over the next 5-7 years it’s going to be something special. So, see if you can forget a few bottles in a corner of your cellar someplace while enjoying one (or two) now with something bistro-y like steak frites, coq au vin, or ratatouille. Although driven right now by bright, ripe fruit and a hint of flinty smoke, there’s also that signature Cabernet Franc “autumn leaves” quality that feels so right for the approaching season. When it comes to authenticity and natural farming, it’s tough to beat the Loire Valley. Enjoy!