Saint-Joseph is a large appellation, so there’s no concise way to describe it—other than to say it may be the most exciting region in the Rhône Valley right now. And it’s not just the producers in the “original” six villages of Saint-Joseph, across the river from Hermitage, that are attracting all the hype. As we’ve seen firsthand (and reported by way of offers here on SommSelect), the entire 40-mile length of Saint-Joseph is prime hunting ground for profound Syrah, as evidenced by today’s showstopper from Domaine Courbis.
Headquartered in the town of Châteaubourg, right on the border with Cornas at the southern end of Saint-Joseph, Courbis sits on the classic granitic soil of the region, albeit with much more limestone than is found further north. Dominique and Laurent Courbis inherited this well-placed estate from their father, Maurice, in the late-1990s and have carved a niche for themselves by melding traditional techniques with refined, sustainable winemaking practices. Their wines are famous for ripeness, polish, and elegance, whether from Saint-Joseph or Cornas (they make both), and today’s 2017 is an irresistible whirlpool of black and blue fruits and ripe, silky tannins. It would likely cost twice as much if it were grown just a few kilometers to the east, and this is precisely why Saint-Joseph is so exciting: These wines, once characterized as “country cousins” to the likes of Hermitage and Cornas, are now more like peers. This one leaves no doubt about that: It’s an absolute steal, whether you drink it now or age it 10 years!
Dominique and Laurent Courbis look extraordinarily alike. They have the same nose, the same smile, and the same contagious enthusiasm for Rhône wine. Together they oversee the Domaine’s 33 hectares of vineyards, the majority of which (18 hectares) are dedicated to Saint-Joseph Rouge. The Domaine itself is nestled at the confluence of the rivers Rhône and Isère, which makes for gorgeous scenery and gentle east- and south-facing slopes for the vines. The vineyards are bordered by bursts of scarlet poppies and little outcroppings of forest. Training methods vary wildly between the vineyards and varieties: most are dense and low to the ground, head-pruned or tied to stakes with tight loops of old grape vine, designed to protect the vines from the frisky mistral wind that will pluck fruit off the vine before your very eyes. The Saint-Joseph Rouge is grown on dense limestone and granite soils that impart an unmistakable solidity and structure. It’s a cuvée of various vineyard parcels from across Courbis’ holdings in the appellation, blended to produce a wine that’s a little more suited to near-term drinking.
Laurent and Dominique are staunch supporters of sustainable farming practices. They pride themselves on melding the old and the new, welcoming indispensable modern advances while building on a foundation of meticulous manual viticulture and vinification. Steep slopes mean hand-harvesting grapes just before dawn—back-breaking work when vines are at mid-thigh height. The 20-year-old winery is built into the hillside, designed to melt into the landscape unless you look closely. It’s entirely “gravity flow,” which the brothers strongly believe improves the wines quality and “effortlessness.” Maceration takes place in stainless steel vats and concrete tanks, each sealed and carefully thermoregulated. Fermentation generally lasts about 15 days before the wine is transferred to a combination of 20 percent tanks and 80 percent barrels. Only 15 percent of those barrels are new: the rest are neutral so as to soften the wine without overwhelming its natural flavor with oak. Fourteen months go by before assemblage and bottling.
I’ve found the 2017s to be more approachable, supple and fresh than the 2018s. The Saint Joseph Rouge 2017 is in a sweet spot already—drinking better than both the leaner ‘16 and the riper ’18, according to the Courbis brothers. Decant it for at least an hour and serve at 60 degrees out of big Bordeaux stems. Made from 100% Syrah, the wine is a deep glass-staining ruby. Aromas of black currant, wet violets, and smoke rise up out of the glass first. Give it a good swirl to release the more-savory black olive notes that give the wine an almost umami quality. It’s silky, expansive, and polished on the palate, with crushed plum, spice cake and those old fashioned violet-flavored pastilles vying for attention. Each sip begins a little brambly and finishes very smoothly with a long, mouthwatering blackberry pie note. This is wine for stew, for sizzling meats, and long evenings by an enormous campfire, wrapped in blankets. I like the idea of smoky beef and bacon chili served in an enormous bowl, enjoying the turn of seasons from summer to fall. Saint Joseph is just the right wine for the in-between seasons, for staving off the first chill without letting you forget about summer blackberries. In my opinion the wine will never really shut down but just keep silkening and softening over the next 10 years. It’ll be tough, but try to hold on to some: Sometimes it’s amazing what a $32 bottle is capable of!
