Washington State’s meteoric rise in critical esteem owes a lot to the success of Quilceda Creek. They’ve amassed stacks of accolades nearly as tall as the Red Mountain AVA that made them famous around the globe.
The winery’s founders, Alex and Jeannette Golitzin, bonded Quilceda Creek in 1978 at the urging of Alex’s uncle, André Tchelistcheff, the emeritus “Dean” of California winemakers. Their early vintages displayed irresistible dark fruit poured over a rigid, tannic scaffolding, and are still aging admirably today. But Quilceda Creek’s unequivocal success has not precluded a careful evolution in style. Gone are the knife-and-fork tannins from their early history. Instead, Alex and Jeannette’s son, Paul Golitzin, and his team are creating remarkably supple and refined wines. With their ample structure, they still benefit from extended cellaring, but today’s “CVR” (“Columbia Valley Red”) is for those of us seeking more immediate gratification. It’s the Polaroid version of their legendary Cabernet Sauvignon, drinking beautifully on release without sacrificing one iota of the densely packed fruit that rocket-launched Quilceda Creek to fame. There’s a great deal to be said for meticulously farmed, beautifully made wine that’s suitable for early drinking—you feel much less apprehension about popping the cork so soon. The 2016 CVR offers immediate and delicious pleasure and is more than reasonably priced relative to its pedigree. Don’t hold back!
Quilceda Creek’s modern facility is as fully functional as it is beautiful. The winery comprises two large open spaces where every single piece of equipment can be moved around by forklift. Expanded in 2011, the cellar incorporates state-of-the-art technology that initially raised some eyebrows. Rather than traditional pumping over to mix fermentations, Paul Golitzin and co-winemaker Alex Stewart opted for an air-pulse system in which macro-bubbles of air push up from the bottom of the tank and delicately break up the cap. This gentle method of mixing the juice with the skins results in finer extraction of color, tannins, and flavor.
But of course, it’s the source of the fruit itself that has the most significant impact on the suppleness and quality of the wine. Initially, the majority of grapes came only from Champoux Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills and contracted vineyards in the power-packed Red Mountain AVA. Today, Paul and Alex work with a broader array of estate sites for greater complexity and silkier texture. The 2016 CVR is a blend of all of their vineyard sites put together: Champoux, Galitzine, Palengat, and Lake Wallula. The final blend is 87% Cabernet Sauvignon with dollops of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. Élevage (aging) is completed in 100% French oak, of which, 60% is new to sweeten and spice the dark and lush fruit.
The wine is a dark, concentrated purple in the glass. Swirl it around and you’ll see that deep color cling to the sides of your stemware. We recommend a brief 20-30 minute decant and service just above cellar temperature (55-60 degrees) before pouring into large Bordeaux stems. Right out of the gate you’ll get high-toned aromatics of preserved black cherries, black currant, boysenberries, pencil shavings, cacao, licorice, and cedar with mixed baking spices seamlessly layered in. The nose is ripe and inviting, and the lush palate is appropriately fresh; it’s an incredibly silky and harmonious wine that tastes ready to drink now. Quilceda’s signature, powerful, handshake tannins are more like a pat on the back here. They bolster the joyful fruit, precluding the demand for cellaring.
The Columbia Valley Red will shine brighter still with a meaty plate of food. We recommend some richly marinated braised short ribs served over buttered mashed potatoes with a little kick of fresh horseradish. And while it’ll be hard to resist, you don’t need to drink it right away. The CVR will cellar admirably for the next 15 or more years in a cool, dark cellar. Enjoy it young and vibrant as well as mature and mellow—it’s the best of both worlds!