Cradle of Wine, “Gogi's Wine”
Other, Other 2013 (750mL)
Regular price$25.00
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Cradle of Wine, “Gogi's Wine”
When it comes to premium prices, allure, and notoriety, northeastern Italian producers such as Gravner and Radikon have taken skin-contact white wine (a.k.a. ‘orange’ wine) to its greatest heights. Among aficionados of these inimitable wines, these are the producers that will be name-dropped first. But the wines of Georgia are hot on their heels, and when it comes to tradition and value, they’ve long surpassed them.
Today’s 2013 is a good example as to why: You’re getting a wine that echoes the best qualities of these superstar bottlings for a tiny fraction of the price. Still, “Gogi’s Wine” is much more than a unique, naturally crafted, skin-contact white: Not only is it an insane value (two, three, even four times less than the aforementioned producers), it is produced in what most experts consider the birthplace of wine. Georgia traces its winemaking history to 6,000 B.C. and its claim to fame in the modern era is that the methods haven’t changed all that much over the millennia: By utilizing large, clay vessels that are buried underground, Georgian winemakers, especially those in the grape-growing epicenter of Kakheti, are able to replicate this ancient history. From its deep amber color, to its ever-evolving perfumed nose, to the impressively structured yet refreshing palate, today’s special wine is bound to mesmerize a crowd. Best of all, this isn’t an orange wine novelty that’s simply “cool” to drink—it’s downright enjoyable and a powerful homage to the prehistoric Cradle of Wine. Only trace amounts of “Gogi’s Wine” find its way into America, so when the last bottle goes, it’s gone for good.
Today’s 2013 is a good example as to why: You’re getting a wine that echoes the best qualities of these superstar bottlings for a tiny fraction of the price. Still, “Gogi’s Wine” is much more than a unique, naturally crafted, skin-contact white: Not only is it an insane value (two, three, even four times less than the aforementioned producers), it is produced in what most experts consider the birthplace of wine. Georgia traces its winemaking history to 6,000 B.C. and its claim to fame in the modern era is that the methods haven’t changed all that much over the millennia: By utilizing large, clay vessels that are buried underground, Georgian winemakers, especially those in the grape-growing epicenter of Kakheti, are able to replicate this ancient history. From its deep amber color, to its ever-evolving perfumed nose, to the impressively structured yet refreshing palate, today’s special wine is bound to mesmerize a crowd. Best of all, this isn’t an orange wine novelty that’s simply “cool” to drink—it’s downright enjoyable and a powerful homage to the prehistoric Cradle of Wine. Only trace amounts of “Gogi’s Wine” find its way into America, so when the last bottle goes, it’s gone for good.
As in a lot of ex-communist republics, Georgia’s wine industry is still in recovery from decades of nationalized production, but some estates have clung mightily to their country’s primordial traditions—that’s especially the case in Kakheti, the country’s most important region (80% of all Georgian wine is made here). This is, after all, the “Cradle of Wine”—of all places, why on earth would one ever let old-school methods go to waste here? These are people who are fiercely loyal to their indigenous grapes, the preservation of winemaking tradition, and above all, the camaraderie that only wine can engender. In a EuroNews video, a local of Kakheti summarized his people’s passion for wine in the most profound way: “In Georgian culture, vineyard is the most important thing. For a peasant, his grapevine comes first, and only next comes the family. That’s what our ancestors said.”
The owner and winemaker of Cradle of Wine, Paul Rodzianko, was born in America, but his parents were of Russian and Georgian descent. After a long professional career in the US, he felt compelled to move to Georgia’s eastern wine region of Kakheti in 2010. To regain his cultural roots, he founded a winery that upheld the most steadfast traditions of Georgian winemaking. Here, it’s all about indigenous, organically farmed grapes. Of course, natural farming and natural winemaking go hand in hand, so in the cellar, he looked toward one integral piece: the qvevri.
Qvevri are the centerpiece of every classic Georgian estate. Created by firing clay at 1,800 degrees Fahrenheit, these large, egg-shaped, terracotta vessels are buried up to their necks in the earth to both naturally ferment and age wines on their skins, pips, stems...you name it. At the Cradle of Wine, their qvevri, ranging from 200 to 2,000 liters, are lined with beeswax to curb excessive oxidation. “For Gogi’s Wine,” a blend of indigenous white grapes (mostly Rkatsiteli, with Mtsvane and Chinuri) aged in this style for six consecutive months without any additions of yeasts or sulfur. Over time, the heavier particles fell out of suspension and the wine was naturally filtered.
If this was served to me in a double blind glass, I’d be sweating bullets: Although “Gogi’s Wine” is a blend of three white grapes, six months of skin contact changes everything; it seems to pull aromatics found in wines all across the world. A deep, imposing amber in the glass first draws your attention, but once you dip your nose in, it’s impossible not to fall into a trance. You’ll discover, chamomile, autumn leaves, dried orange peel, bergamot oil, tomato leaf, turmeric, pomegranate seeds, persimmon, apricot skin, lees—the list goes on. The palate reveals amazing freshness buttressed by gripping tannins. If you tend to steer away from the “week-old fruit” and “apple cider vinegar” qualities in many of today’s orange wines, this bottle is calling your name. While there is certainly a mellow feel here, it's perfectly integrated and it drinks more like a light red wine than an “orange wine.” Just uncork the bottle and stand it up in a cool place for about an hour before serving. Savor this unique skin-contact wine in all-purpose stems, unless you happen to be in possession of the traditional drinking horns called kantsi—if you are, give me a call, we should meet. If you want to keep piling on the culture, check out the attached mtsvadi (grilled shish kebabs) to get the full effect. Cheers!
