Argyros, Santorini Assyrtiko
Other, Greece 2017 (750mL)
Regular price$32.00
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Argyros, Santorini Assyrtiko
Today’s wine makes it hard to label Greek mythology as ancient folklore: Argyros’ ancient-vine Santorini Assyrtiko, with its exotic layers of sun-kissed salinity and crushed volcanic minerals, feels as if it were a collaborative effort between Vulcan and Poseidon, the Gods of Sea and Fire. I say this not to sensationalize, but to paint a picture of just how startlingly vivid and distinctive the top expressions of 100% Assyrtiko can be.
They are truly inimitable creations that have won over sommeliers and appreciators of terroir-centric wines built on mineral-heavy foundations (e.g., Chablis, German/Austrian Riesling, Sancerre). But, like a Greek tragedy, there is one fatal flaw with Santorini Assyrtiko: quantity. Santorini isn’t getting any larger—you can drive from end to end in about 30 minutes—and there are only thirteen operating wineries on the entire island. Accordingly, there is hardly enough to pass around. With the influence of social media and a wine industry propelled by youthful, avant-garde energy, these island gems are more coveted than ever. Prices are deservedly ever-rising here but even still, Argyros’ Assyrtiko remains deliciously affordable in the grand scheme of things. It’s a timeless classic and an iconic representation of this magical island. Good luck topping this!
They are truly inimitable creations that have won over sommeliers and appreciators of terroir-centric wines built on mineral-heavy foundations (e.g., Chablis, German/Austrian Riesling, Sancerre). But, like a Greek tragedy, there is one fatal flaw with Santorini Assyrtiko: quantity. Santorini isn’t getting any larger—you can drive from end to end in about 30 minutes—and there are only thirteen operating wineries on the entire island. Accordingly, there is hardly enough to pass around. With the influence of social media and a wine industry propelled by youthful, avant-garde energy, these island gems are more coveted than ever. Prices are deservedly ever-rising here but even still, Argyros’ Assyrtiko remains deliciously affordable in the grand scheme of things. It’s a timeless classic and an iconic representation of this magical island. Good luck topping this!
The best Assyrtiko bottlings deliver the best value of unoaked white wine on the market, so the fact that they are still so undervalued perplexes me: Santorini has volcanic soils, scarcity, the fascinating kouloura vine-training method, and surprising ageability in the bottle. Greece may not be your first thought when discussing the world’s greatest white wines, but experiencing this top expression of Assyrtiko will vault it to the top of your list.
Surrounded by the electric blue waters of the Aegean Sea, Santorini’s black volcanic earth is the product of an ancient volcano whose explosion dwarfed that of Mount St. Helens’ by more than 100 times in magnitude. One of the largest seismic events in earth’s history, the eruption of Thera left behind hundreds of meters of volcanic ash and the crescent-shaped island towering out of the Aegean waters looking into the caldera (crater) below. This volcanic terroir is just one of the major factors that define Assyrtiko’s incredibly unique flavor profile.
Although wine is believed to have a 3,500-year-old history on the island, with some current rootstocks that are conceivably older than 400 years (phylloxera is deterred by sandy soil), most of Santorini’s estates are relatively young due to the centuries-long Ottoman occupation. By Greek standards, however, Argyros is no spring chicken: Fourth-generation Matthew Argyros is currently running this 116-year-old family estate. His Assyrtiko vines are ungrafted, very old (60-150 years old!), trained in the classic kouloura method, and dry-farmed. So, with a lack of groundwater and irrigation, how do they stay hydrated? Drop by drop, the vines soak up mist that blows in from the sea, thus creating mouthwatering salinity and highly concentrated flavors unlike any other white wine on earth. Come harvest in August, the grapes are picked by hand and vinified briefly in stainless steel.
Exotic, richly layered, mineral-flecked, and indescribably mouth-watering, Argyros will leave newcomers transfixed. The wine blasts out high-toned aromas of green pineapple core, mango peel, yellow flowers, white peach, salt-preserved citrus, sea spray, orange blossoms, and smoky, crushed volcanic rock. Rich, hyper-concentrated ripe fruit and citrus flavors dominate the palate before giving way to an abundance of crushed minerals and vibrant acidity. Because of its high acid, these wine age sneakily well, which I suspect will be lost on many because they are so indescribably delicious upon release. Honestly, the best Assyrtikos I’ve tasted were 10 years old so those who have patience will be rewarded, even if it’s just another couple of years. If consuming this wine soon, decant for 30-60 minutes and serve just under cellar temperature, around 50-55 degrees, in all-purpose stems. I would add that it is extremely important not to serve this wine too cold or its personality will be lost. This is an island wine, so a seafood dish with a twist of citrus is a given. Try out the attached recipe, open two bottles, and get lost in the charm of Santorini. Cheers!
