When critic Antonio Galloni recently spoke of David Ramey, he said “It’s hard to know where to begin...as there are so many highlights,” but the
New York Times’ Eric Asimov came to his own conclusion when he selected Ramey as one of Napa Valley’s most classic Cabernets. It’s impossible not to agree with that sentiment when tasting today’s
current-release 2014.
There’s a feeling that rushes over me and sommeliers from coast to coast when these wines make an appearance: They are the paragon of tradition and terroir authenticity, a beacon among some 500+ Napa Valley Cabernet producers. Should you want the definitive lesson on marrying elegance with power, Ramey is the unequivocal answer. At a mere $55, David showcases the endearing charm of Napa Valley by masterfully blending its distinctive appellations together; allowing for a time-consuming, ultra-traditional upbringing in the winery; and emerging with a Cabernet blend that mirrors the blue bloods of Bordeaux. There’s a reason all the critics (even the harshest) fall head over heels for each release. To skip this would be the equivalent of indirectly telling the world that classed-growth Bordeaux and classic Napa Cabernet—at an extraordinary value, no less—is not for you, which I know is not the case!
David Ramey occupied just about every rung on the professional ladder before founding Ramey Wine Cellars with his wife, Carla, in 1996. He first built up his impressive resume in Sonoma, working for the now-famous labels of Matanzas Creek and Chalk Hill. His groundbreaking work wasn’t a stroke of luck—a graduate degree at UC Davis and a memorable stint at Château Pétrus introduced David to Bordelaise winemaking. Back stateside, his Californian wines were informed by these traditional methods, and he took his talents to Napa. After several years at Christian Moueix’s Dominus Estate, he then accepted a position at Rudd (two of Napa’s greatest cult labels), where he discovered his touch with Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon.
Because Napa Valley’s multitude of appellations have distinct micro-climates, blending them together can be a science all its own, so it’s a luxury when it comes from David, one of the most respected winemakers in the Valley. His flagship Cabernet, which is rounded out by three other Bordelaise grapes, hails from seven different appellations, most notably the AVAs of Saint Helena, and Oak Knoll, and Napa Valley. Because of this diverse spread of vineyard sites, they must be monitored independently, which is why harvest occurred over the course of five weeks in 2014. By implementing a traditional, minimalist upbringing in the cellar, David makes sure that his patience pays off. After a 100% native-yeast fermentation, the wine matures on its lees (spent yeasts) for 18 months in 52% new French oak and a small amount of American oak. It is then bottled unfiltered and allowed to rest further until deemed ready. This magnificent 2014 is the current release—a testament to patience and a determination to do things right.
Balance. It’s all about balance in Ramey’s wines. By harnessing the warmth of Napa Valley and the power of Cabernet Sauvignon, David creates complex, sublime masterpieces in what appears to be an effortless manner. Of course, it’s anything but. Wines like this aren’t made every day: You can taste the quality and precision in every sip—especially in 2014, a mild vintage that classically trained winemakers wrote home about. A minimum 30-minute decant is recommended, but our bottle was singing the moment the wine splashed into our Bordeaux stems: Ripe black cherry, plums, fresh currants, and dark brambleberry merged with crushed violets, tobacco leaf, baking spice, cedar, cacao nibs, and smoked meat, all of which gained further complexity and aromatic intensity as time rolled by. With so much freshness, supple fruit, textural savoriness, and fully-rounded tannins, it’s already in a stunning, ready-to-drink spot. That said, a very bright 10+-year future lies ahead of this wine—you can’t go wrong either way. In case you’re rusty, here’s a guide on how to pan-fry the perfect New York strip steak to go alongside it. Cheers!