If you’ve never heard of either Grolleau Gris (grape) or Fiefs Vendéens (place), don’t beat yourself up about it: Most people haven’t. Today’s wine is a great introduction to both, especially the latter—namely, the far western fringes of the Loire Valley, on the doorstep of the Atlantic Ocean.
Here, uncommon grapes are customary, singled out (and here to stay) by their appetizing saline crunch and free-flowing fruits—just the kind of things I want in a youthful, “popping bottles” rosé wine. But there is something special in today’s bottle, something I wouldn’t expect from a cool-climate rosé, which is troubled by unripe fruit and frail structure. The 2018 “O.V.N.I.” Rosé, from up-and-coming local talent Jérémie Mourat, surprises the palate with an extra helping of minerality, a bonus layer of fruit and creaminess with lively tartness, that makes it stand far above the piles of its thin and watery pale pink cousins. It’s part of a deliciously unique lineup of wines from Mourat, whose deft touch with whites and reds alike is helping draw attention to the Fiefs Vendéens appellation. More than a simple summertime sipper, O.V.N.I. is an ode to the Loire Valley and a triumph for an obscure grape in an out-of-the-way place.
O.V.N.I. stands for “Objet Viticole Non Identifie” (unidentified wine object), a moniker which sums up the personality of this rosé: fun, delicious, underlined by a touch of wit. Vignobles Mourat was created in 1974, about halfway between Nantes and the famous port of La Rochelle. It’s the western part of the Loire Valley that we forget about, the part that dips way south of Muscadet territory and curls up against the shores of the Atlantic. All 67 hectares of Mourat’s vines are located within the Fiefs-Vendéens, one of the seven appellations of the Pays Nantais, which also include the assorted Muscadet appellations further north. The appellation laws focus on Chenin Blanc, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, and Négrette. Grolleau Gris, the rare pink-skinned mutation of Grolleau Noir, is a complementary variety, often used in blending to add freshness and pretty fruits. It rarely stands on its own, which makes today’s wine truly singular. It’s ‘varietal’ composition requires it carry an “IGP Val de Loire” designation, rather than the Fiefs Vendéens AOC.
From the silex of Pouilly-Fumé to the weathered limestones of Saumur-Champigny to the mica schist, granite, and greenish stones of Muscadet, the Loire Valley is a sommelier’s almanac for soil types—and the Fiefs-Vendéens deserves a bookmark. It’s one of the few places in France that has volcanic soils, and perhaps the only place in France where grapevines, planted in volcanic soils, exist in a maritime climate. Like, the great Clos du Papillon of Savennières or the powerful Rangen Grand Cru of Alsace, volcanic soils breed a unique depth of minerality, a certain “volcanic soul,” that matters. But volcanic soils do not work magic alone; sedimentary purplish schist allows Grolleau Gris’ roots to navigate deeply and sustainable farming keeps vines fit in a northerly climate that can be brutal with unpredictable rain, frost, and mildew. With O.V.N.I., the Mourat family gives an obscure grape its best opportunity to shine, and their efforts are commendable. The rosé has become the flagship of the domaine, making new friends, disciples, and Grolleau Gris-guzzling zealots wherever it goes.
Crafted from pure Grolleau Gris from 25-year old vines, O.V.N.I. is the ideal low-alcohol, high-acid beverage. Hand harvested, the fruit is pressed and briefly sits with its skins, just enough time to give the final wine its shell-pink hue. Aged in stainless steel for four months, this is Grolleau Gris in its finest moment. In the glass (an all-purpose stem will do), the wine is star bright with streaks of pale salmon into a watery rim. Its faintly colored appearance couldn’t be more deceiving. On the palate it bursts open with white cherry, red raspberry, then watermelon and blood orange. The jaw line is savory and salty, which kicks this wine into a high gear of refreshment, followed by an ultra, bone-dry finish. Bottled in the spring, the wine has had a couple of months to rest in the bottle, fleshing out the middle palate with a luscious softness. As summertime meanders into fall, it’s the best time to take advantage of tomatoes. Just like rosé wine, there are countless shapes and sizes to pick and choose, and the best ones are mouthwateringly ripe. Check out the attached recipe—late-summer perfection, in my opinion—and let great ingredients (and wine) shine!
