La Rioja Alta is a truly rare breed, producing traditional wines of exceptional purity and complexity across their entire lineup. Few wineries in Rioja—really, anywhere in the world—continue the kinds of classic practices that are still the norm here. They are the embodiment of dedication and heritage, and it seems that every release, from today’s “Alberdi Reserva” to their rarely made or seen “890 Gran Reserva,” fortify my appreciation for wine as a whole.
If you love brilliantly crafted wines of refinement that consistently rank among the best in their respective categories, today's 2013 will floor you. With rich history, high-altitude vineyards, and ultra-traditional upbringing in the winery, La Rioja Alta’s Alberdi is the best-value Rioja you can ever hope to own. At this price, I think producers from every region of the world should get out a pen and paper and take scrupulous notes. Up to 12 bottles per person today, and trust me: Having a case of this on hand is never a bad idea!
In 1890, five wine-loving families came together and formed a wine society specific to Rioja. Since then, La Rioja Alta has expanded its production to include the Ardanza and Alberdi labels, all while securing old vines from the region’s most exceptional parcels. At home base, they have diligently built an unrivaled in-house cooperage—an expensive, time-consuming feat. Their oak is bought and imported from America and then turned into barrels by their own artisans. Upon completion, each barrel air dries for at least two years before being circulated into wine production. Their cellars now hold a jaw-dropping 30,000 barrels. Just marinate on that for a second: 30,000 barrels. That’s an incredible amount of inventory.
Today’s 2013 was sourced from four of La Rioja Alta’s 40+-year-old, estate-owned vineyards, all of which are nearing elevations of 2,000 feet. Though the growing season brought cold weather and extensive rain, the final months leading up to harvest were filled with sunshine that brought grapes to ideal levels of ripeness. After handpicking and shuttling to their nearby winery in small boxes, grapes were de-stemmed and a natural-yeast fermentation was carried out in stainless steel tanks. The wine underwent a minimum two years’ aging in American oak—new barrels for the first year and then neutral for the second—and every six months, it was gently racked by candlelight in order to slowly remove sediment and prompt aeration. It was bottled in June of 2016 and then sent to rest in their cool cellars beneath the historic wine town of Haro until deemed ready for commercial release. Essentially, La Rioja Alta does everything in their power to make sure the wine sings when it arrives at your doorstep.
Visually, the wine reveals a deep ruby core moving out to a light brick red on the rim with just the slightest hint of orange. Aromatically, it’s a beauty that reveals every classic note that put Rioja on the map: ripe plums, currants, black raspberries, sandalwood, coffee beans, vanilla, coconut husk, coriander, and a touch of balsamic cherries. This pure, 100% Tempranillo sings the moment it hits your palate and keeps hitting bright, high-toned notes all the way into a brilliant savory finish that consists of underbrush, fresh herbs, and exotic spices. Those who have yet to experience the singular magic of La Rioja Alta will be floored with disbelief upon realizing that this six-year-old Reserva is their ENTRY LEVEL bottling! It’s impressively layered and energetic, with fruit and earth playing off each other in the most harmonious fashion. All you need to do is serve in large Bordeaux stems around 60 degrees after an optional 15-minute decant. While the rock-bottom price of this 2013 Reserva is a feat in and of itself, just wait until you’re enjoying a bottle or two over the course of an evening—the ROI here is unbeatable. Enjoy now and over the next five years with people who appreciate the finer things in life but would rather not spend a handsome fortune. Cheers!
