When it comes to red Burgundy royalty, Chambolle-Musigny is the perfumed, pretty “queen” and Gevrey-Chambertin the darker-robed “king,” known for more brooding expressions of Côte de Nuits Pinot Noir.
The warm 2015 vintage was widely acclaimed all over Europe, and it delivered incredible wines in Burgundy—provided grapes were harvested before becoming over-ripe. Some ’15s I’ve tasted have felt a little over-extracted and atypical, so when today’s wine from Philippe Rossignol came along, I was reminded of how truly great 2015 red Burgundy can be when done right! As they say, you have to kiss a few frogs before you find the prince—or in this case, the king—and Rossignol, although somewhat of a “new kid” on the block, nailed this vintage. His “Vieilles Vignes” (“old vines”) Gevrey-Chambertin is a perfectly proportioned classic that will go the long haul. It is a beautifully evocative, dense, layered Gevrey-Chambertin that is lovely now and will peak at its 10th birthday. These wines are rare to come by in the US, so stock up while you can!
Insofar as old vines go in Burgundy’s Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin has a stronghold. Its nine Grand Cru vineyards produce powerfully rich, densely layered, potent wines that are fascinating to enjoy in their youth and grow to earth-shatteringly complex heights as they mature. With the formidable Chambertin itself, and iconic neighbors, it’s only natural that a vigneron would feel humbled by his surroundings. These vineyard sites are centuries in the making and vines are rooted deep in limestone, which is why burgeoning producers can thrive here—as long as they have an adept hand in traditional winemaking. That’s where Domaine Philippe Rossignol comes into play.
Established some 40 years ago (which qualifies as “new” in a place like Burgundy), Philippe Rossignol established his eponymous domaine in the mid-1970s. Today’s Gevrey-Chambertin is sourced from select parcels throughout his 17 acres of vines in the appellation. Most vines are owned outright while some are by fermage, a long lease agreement (nine years minimum) that comes with the right of automatic renewal. They limit yields and always hand-harvest their crop. In the winery, grapes are entirely de-stemmed and after a cool fermentation, they are aged in mostly neutral French oak.
Although Rossignol is still an under-the-radar producer, there is a close connection to one of Burgundy’s all-star cult producers: Gevrey’s Joseph Roty is Philippe’s brother-in-law, so there is no lack of prestige here. Today, Philippe’s son, Sylvain, works hand-in-hand with his dad to craft beautiful expressions of red Burgundy across a range of terroirs, and their Gevrey-Chambertin is a testament to their winemaking prowess. We were among the first in the US to introduce Philippe Rossignol wines to American wine lovers, and now, we can’t get enough.
In the glass, Rossignol’s 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin shows a deep, dark ruby core, moving to slight pink with garnet hues on the rim. It is highly aromatic with dark, brooding, and intense black cherry, blackberry, ripe strawberry with underbrush, dried leaves, forest floor, dried mushroom, black tea leaf, dried flowers, and delicate hints of exotic spices on the palate. Nearing a full-bodied mouthfeel with firm yet soft tannins, flavors on the palate confirm the nose as beautiful deep, sweet fruit moves into a cornucopia of savory components on a long finish. This is serious Gevery-Chambertin, and I’d advise aging and waiting another 3-4 years to really see the prince, and eventually, the king this will turn into. The density of the wine with its profound tannic structure and savory qualities calls for pairing with deeply delicious stews, slow-braised brisket, or lamb shank done on the grill. Even simple barbecue chicken would work! If you’re drinking this in the near future, decant for 45 minutes and serve at 60-65 degrees in large Burgundy stems. Enjoy!