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Agnès et Didier Dauvissat, Chablis 1er Cru “Beauroy”

Burgundy / Chablis, France 2017 (750mL)
$34.00
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Agnès et Didier Dauvissat, Chablis 1er Cru “Beauroy”

Think starting a business is hard? Imagine doing so in Burgundy, entirely from scratch—no cellar, no land, nothing at all—surrounded by some of the highest-priced vineyard real estate on the planet. That was Agnès and Didier Dauvissat in the 1980s: They really, truly, had to build everything from the ground up, even the vines. Having worked for some of the most powerful and prestigious houses in Chablis (Vincent Dauvissat, Moreau, La Chablisienne), Didier was allowed to buy a sliver of unplanted land in Premier Cru “Beauroy.” So, they went to work and planted their own vines in 1987 and now, 30 years later, their son Florent has hand-crafted one of the greatest price-to-quality Premier Crus on the market from those very same vines.
This 2017 is everything I seek out when judging the world’s best Chablis: textural richness, chalky mineral precision, intense freshness, and the structure to age for many years. Premier Cru Burgundy at this price doesn’t seem realistic, but Florent Dauvissat makes it a reality, year in and year out—albeit in minute quantities. While I would personally love to stock my own cellar to the ceiling, sadly, there is simply not enough to do so. Even with the extra-low price, we can only offer six bottles per person today. 
As for the name, Dauvissat, well, it’s a common one in Chablis. This isn’t *that* Dauvissat (although Didier previously worked for *that* Dauvissat), but they carry the surname with confidence—their wines are downright delicious and far more affordable. This small estate comprises roughly 25 acres of carefully selected vineyards, with Premier Cru “Beauroy” being the crown jewel. The Dauvissats’ farmstead property has attracted its share of critical praise, yet the wines remain under-the-radar and, as a result, mercifully priced. 

Today’s wine brings us to Beauroy. Situated on the left bank of the River Serein and slightly northwest from Chablis’ cluster of seven Grand Crus, Dauvissat’s vines are in a contiguous two-hectare parcel that celebrated its 30th birthday in 2017. Farmed according to lutte raisonnée principles—which translates to “reasoned fight,” and entails organic farming practices unless an emergency arises—the resulting fruit is full of life and terroir-driven energy. The wines are aged for 12 months on their fine lees in climate-controlled stainless steel where they undergo both alcoholic and malolactic fermentation. They are then very lightly filtered and fined prior to bottling and deliver a stunning expression of Premier Cru Chablis at a price point that is practically without rival. Florent only produces small amounts of this wine. 

Having tasted the last several vintages of Florent Dauvissat’s “Beauroy,” today’s 2017 undoubtedly expresses the most classic Premier Cru Chablis characteristics on the nose, with stunningly fresh white and yellow flowers, white peach, yellow apple skin, citrus blossoms, salt-preserved lemon, crushed chalk, sea spray, wet stones, lemon verbena, and kisses of hazelnut. It’s a dynamite example from one of the most sought-after Chardonnay sites on earth and quite possibly the best Premier Cru you’ll find in this $30-something range. Really, I cannot stress the price-to-quality enough: This is honest Chablis, one that proudly expressed its renown chalky-limestone terroir, it’s cool climate, and minimalist winemaking style. The palate is wonderfully rich, supple, and broadly layered with kisses of citrus, apple, and intense crushed rock minerality. Once the wine gets enough air, it fills out with even more beautiful creaminess and a depth of flavor and freshness that lingers until your next sip. Oxygen and proper temperature are key when serving this wine: Decant for 30+ minutes and serve at 50-55 degrees in Burgundy stems alongside a seared turbot in a succulent lemon-butter sauce. Cheers!

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Country
France
Region
Burgundy / Chablis
Sub-Region
FranceChablis 1er Cru Beauroy
Soil
Limestone
Farming
Sustainable
Blend
Chardonnay
Alcohol
14.0
OAK
Neutral
TEMP.
50-55
Glassware
Burgundy Stems
Drinking
Now-2027
Decanting
30-60 Minutes
Pairing
Turbot Meunière

France

Bourgogne

Beaujolais

Enjoying the greatest wines of Beaujolais starts, as it usually does, with the lay of the land. In Beaujolais, 10 localities have been given their own AOC (Appellation of Controlled Origin) designation. They are: Saint Amour; Juliénas; Chénas; Moulin-à Vent; Fleurie; Chiroubles; Morgon; Régnié; Côte de Brouilly; and Brouilly.

Southwestern France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux surrounds two rivers, the Dordogne and Garonne, which intersect north of the city of Bordeaux to form the Gironde Estuary, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The region is at the 45th parallel (California’s Napa Valley is at the38th), with a mild, Atlantic-influenced climate enabling the maturation of late-ripening varieties.

Central France

Loire Valley

The Loire is France’s longest river (634 miles), originating in the southerly Cévennes Mountains, flowing north towards Paris, then curving westward and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Nantes. The Loire and its tributaries cover a huge swath of central France, with most of the wine appellations on an east-west stretch at47 degrees north (the same latitude as Burgundy).

Northeastern France

Alsace

Alsace, in Northeastern France, is one of the most geologically diverse wine regions in the world, with vineyards running from the foothills of theVosges Mountains down to the Rhine River Valley below.

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