Today’s Pinot Noir comes from a prominent German estate, surrounded by vines planted in 1300 by the same order of Cistercian monks who established vineyards in Burgundy! Smack in the prime territory of Ortenau, a sub-appellation of Baden, just south of the town of Offenburg—this is where Germany’s best Pinot Noir hails from.
When I’m blind-tasted on international Pinots, time and again I’m finding the greatest price-to-quality ratio coming out of Germany; today’s 2015 from Schloss Ortenberg is a sterling example. Although most of German wine country falls within Europe’s Zone A—the coolest band of growing zones—Baden, the southernmost wine region in Germany, falls within Zone B, along with Alsace and Champagne (among others). It’s still an under-explored source of ethereally delicious Old World Pinot Noir, most of which—like today’s—remains scandalously inexpensive given its quality. Not only did I appreciate the tension, perfume, and perfect balance of fruit and minerality in Schloss Ortenberg’s “Granit,” I can only imagine how the fortunes of Baden Pinot Noir will rise as global temperatures do the same. Is German Pinot Noir the future? We’ll see, but I’m more than happy with what I can get in the present for just $29!
Nevertheless, many people forget: Germany is already the third-largest producer of Pinot Noir in the world. Another practically unheard-of facet to the German wine scene is the handful of excellent German wineries that are publicly owned by citizens and townships. Former castles, abbeys, and hospitals are today dedicated to research, education—and intriguingly, excellent winemaking. The Juliusspital in Franken and the Vereinigte Hospitien in the Mosel are two examples, with winemaking roots dating back to Roman times.
Another is the source of today’s wine, Schloss Ortenberg, where monks first established a hospital in 1300 (think Burgundy’s Hospice de Beaune) and planted vines to produce wine that could be mixed with water for drinking, as well as to provide profits to support the hospital. Today, the city and county of Ortenberg share a 50/50 ownership, but the winery is run by a dedicated team of people producing beautiful wines for unbelievable prices.
At the helm is a bright, young vigneron, Matthias Wolf, who ensures vineyards are farmed sustainably. Estate vines border the Black Forest and slope down from 1,000 to 650 feet in elevation atop decomposed granite, sandstone, and loess (silt)—not unlike those of Beaujolais. Climate change is creating longer hang times in cooler regions, allowing Pinot Noir, which is extensively planted in Baden, to reach full phenolic potential—evidenced in today’s 2015, which shows terrific fruit concentration along with a deep, characteristically German woodland savor.
The 2015 “Granit” was hand-harvested and the clusters were de-stemmed before a short ‘cold soak’ and native yeast fermentation in stainless steel tanks. The wine then aged in
barriques for 18 months prior to bottling. In the glass, it shows a saturated dark ruby core, with wild berry fruit aromas, dark, crushed rock, black underbrush, and deep woodsy undertones—like freshly pulled ferns, like you’re on the forest floor and you’re pulling up and wild berries and ferns. Medium plus in body, the wine has a rich texture and is incredibly perfumed, showing freshly cut flowers and Alpine herbs. It is loaded with freshness with perfect tension, akin to the experience of drinking great Burgundy. This is a Pinot Noir to enjoy now and for the next 5-7 years, but don’t be afraid to forget it in the cellar for a decade. I’d recommend serving in large Burgundy stems and serving alongside your favorite rendition of German sausages, like bratwurst with potatoes and cabbage.