Although Ian Cauble is SommSelect’s resident Francophile, I wanted to weigh in on today’s wine because (a) I like French wine, too, and (b) this wine is increasingly, if not exclusively, the type of red wine I want to drink these days. We still live in a wine culture in which the biggest, most concentrated wines are considered “best,” but there’s change afoot: Many of the most-hyped reds on the market today are much lighter and relatively unembellished (i.e. unoaked or lightly oaked).
Today’s IGP Syrah from Martin Clerc is a “Baby Côte-Rôtie” in the best sense of that term—it’s not the simple quaffer you settle for because you don’t want to spring for the real thing, it’s a spot-on expression of Syrah from Côte-Rôtie that wants for nothing. When I tasted this 2017, I defaulted to my Italian comfort zone and thought of how often I prefer Rosso di Montalcino wines to their bigger, more oak-influenced Brunello siblings. But aside from questions of approachability, alcohol levels, etc., there’s another important reason to check out Clerc’s Syrah: It is such a spot-on, look-it-up-in-the-dictionary expression of this grape and place I feel like we all should experience it just to get on the same page. This is the essence of Northern Rhône Syrah—a single acoustic guitar rather than a whole band—and anyone who drinks these wines is sure to appreciate it!
Though it is sourced from vineyards in Louis Clerc’s home village of Tupin-et-Semons, at the southern end of the Côte-Rôtie zone, today’s wine carries the “Collines Rhodaniennes” geographic indication, or IGP (Indication Géographique Protégée). Crafted from 100% Syrah and aged in a combination of barrels and stainless steel tanks, this 2017 is a beautifully transparent expression of Syrah as grown in the sandy, granitic soils of the Northern Rhône. In the glass, it’s a deep, reflective ruby with flashes of garnet and magenta, with pitch-perfect Syrah aromas of brambly black raspberry, plums, currants, lavender, black olive, bay leaf, and cracked black pepper. It is medium-bodied, bright, and exceedingly fresh, finishing on a floral and mouthwatering note. A quick decant of 30 minutes certainly won’t hurt, then serve it at 60-65 degrees in Burgundy stems to highlight its high-toned aromas. It’s ready to enjoy now and over the next 3-5 years with burgers, steaks, lamb chops, and other grilled goodies. I couldn’t resist an Italian favorite as the recipe suggestion. Nothing wrong with bringing these two great cultures together, right? Enjoy!