Just months ago, legendary Champagne Henriot unveiled a bottle that had been nine long years in the making. To them, it would forever be treasured as one of the most special Champagnes to leave their deep chalk cellars. Upon its arrival in the American market, this extraordinary 2008 bottling was immediately sucked into a whirlwind of fanatical praise.
Why all the furor? For one, 2008 was one of the greatest vintages in Champagne, ever. Ask the cellar master of any famous prestige label—from Dom Pérignon ($175) to Cristal ($250) to Sir Winston Churchill ($275)—and they’ll tell you 2008 was a blessing from the Gods. Even with the remarkable vintage, that’s still not what makes today’s bottle an investment-grade cellar classic. As if the stars aligned, 2008 also marked Henriot’s 200th anniversary, which is denoted on the limited-edition label. Combine all that with their peerless Premier and Grand Cru holdings, nearly ten years of cellar aging, and a modest dosage to complement the wine’s countless energetic layers, and the result is the essence of world-class vintage Champagne. For under $100, Henriot’s 2008 is among the very best you could ever hope to find from this renowned region. Six bottles per person until stocks are depleted—don’t miss it!
Vintage bottlings from the greatest Champagne houses are typically sourced from the region's most distinguished villages and aged for extended periods. Styles, of course, vary greatly from one producer to the next, but one thing is generally true of all vintage Champagnes from “the big boys”—they are pricey, and rightly so, due to the cost of premium fruit and the commitment to not see an ROI for many years as the wine ages. In 2008, Henriot was one of the most extreme examples—they aged this vintage bottling more than nine years before disgorgement.
The Henriot family first inhabited Champagne in the mid-17th century as merchants. Textiles were their main business, but wine also exchanged hands, leading to the acquisition of vineyards as time went by. Nearing the advent of the 19th century, Nicolas Henriot married Apolline Godinot (who owned vineyards in the Montagne de Reims subzone), both of whom continued expanding their holdings and love for Champagne until his death in 1808. Apolline responded by founding Veuve (widow) Henriot Ainé and immediate success followed. At eight generations and counting, the house has never left family hands—a rare feat in Champagne.
Henriot’s 2008 is an equal blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that was meticulously sourced from 10 of Champagne’s most sought-after Premier and Grand Crus. Though quality has always been the hallmark of this long-standing Champagne House, the hiring of Laurent Fresnet as Chef de Cave (Cellar Master) in 2006 took them to new heights. Each bottle shows indescribable freshness, poise, and tension that continues building with time—this wine’s 11th birthday is fast approaching, so you can imagine just how impressive it is.
After a stainless steel fermentation and a masterful blending (an underappreciated art in the world of Champagne), today’s wine was bottled in the beginning of 2009 and sent to rest in Henriot’s deep cellars. It wasn’t until the first quarter of 2018 when they were finally exhumed and disgorged. A modest dosage of six grams per liter was added.
Bottom line: This is an extremely fresh, tension- and mineral-filled bottle of Champagne. From Monsieur Fresnet himself: “Rich in structure, yet at the same time, mineral and light as a feather, in pure Henriot style.” And though you can find pure bliss by opening several bottles over the next year—you absolutely should—there is a stellar forecast on the distant horizon. There will be heaps of savory, mouthwatering pleasure to be had in 10, even 20 years down the road. That’s what the vivid firepower of the high-acid 2008 vintage brings to the table. The wine pours a brilliant yellow-gold with compact bubbles that race to the surface, and their miniature explosions unleash breathtaking perfumes of minerals, white flowers, and crisp fruit. As the wine settles in all-purpose stems (always our preference) and approaches 50-55 degrees, you’ll uncover fresh notes of acacia, honeysuckle, white peach, cut yellow apples, salted lemon, nectarine peel, baked pastry, and finely crushed chalk. The palate pulls off a miracle: With such intense perfume and pungency on the nose, it reveals itself with such savory grace and suppleness—remember, the wine has had 10 years to integrate! That said, this luxury gem doesn’t belong as an appetizer. Enjoy it alongside one or two friends and a main-course turbot drenched in a butter sauce. Cheers!
