I always tie myself in knots talking about Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. It’s one of Tuscany’s “big three” wine regions alongside Chianti Classico and Montalcino, but for whatever reason, it doesn’t have the name recognition of the other two. Montepulciano certainly does not lack for history, or wine quality, or stunning vineyard landscapes…it’s got all that in spades.
So rather than fuss too much over it I’m going to keep my pitch for Valdipiatta simple: This is a wine of Brunello di Montalcino-level power and expression for about half the price of a typical Brunello. Sourced from certified organic vineyards and comprised of 95% Sangiovese, it’s a great example of how more and more Tuscan producers are focusing on communicating authentic regional identity instead of crafting something in a more ‘international’ style. I taste this wine and it says “Tuscany” and “Sangiovese” to me—loudly and confidently. On a more fundamental level, it’s a serious, age-worthy red for under $30. So, either way you slice it, it’s a winner. Check it out and you’ll see what I mean!
As for my difficulties finding the right way to talk about Montepulciano—the place, of course, not the grape found further south in Abruzzo—maybe I’m over-complicating things. I’ve always thought of it as kind of a “middle child” between Chianti Classico and Brunello, but look at a map of Tuscany and you’ll see: Montepulciano is a lot closer to Montalcino than it is to Siena (the southern border of the Chianti Classico DOCG). Although there are exceptions, most of the Montepulciano wines I taste these days closely resemble their Montalcino cousins. The comparison gets muddled because Vino Nobile wines, like Chiantis, are not always 100% Sangiovese, like Brunello. But more and more often they are—or, like Valdipiatta’s, close to it—and that’s a positive development. For all its ancient history in the area, Sangiovese is a challenging, extremely finicky variety. Producers are still figuring it out.
Like Montalcino, the town of Montepulciano is perched on a ridge and surrounded on either side by wide, deep valleys—the Valdichiana to the east and the Val d’Orcia to the west (it might also interest you to know that Montepulciano sits at a marginally higher altitude than Montalcino). Valdipiatta is situated in the heart of the DOCG production zone, most of which is spread across hillsides and high plateaus to the west of the town. The estate was originally founded in 1973 but grew considerably in prominence when Giulio Caporali purchased the property in 1990. Joined later by his daughter, Miriam, who now runs the estate, Caporali grew Valdipiatta’s vineyard holdings to about 80 acres, with Miriam, who studied winemaking in Bordeaux, overseeing the implementation of organic farming. Bordeaux winemaking professor Yves Glories provides consultation in the cellar.
As in Montalcino, 2013 was a celebrated vintage in Montepulciano, with harvest coming in early October and wines showing considerable power but also great balance and completeness. Valdipiatta’s 2013 Nobile di Montepulciano was fermented in stainless steel and aged 18 months in a mixture of French oak barriques and larger (30/50-hectoliter) Slavonian oak casks. It then spent six months in bottle before release.
Still more bottle age has allowed this 2013 to knit together, integrate its oak component, and lead with dark fruit and soil character. In the glass, it’s a deep, not-quite-opaque ruby with hints of garnet at the rim, with a dark-fruited nose of ripe black cherry, black and red plum, licorice, wild herbs, tobacco, turned earth, and a hint of smoke. It is medium-plus to full in body, with still-prominent tannins and lots of freshness—with 30-60 minutes of air it drinks beautifully now, but it has the stuffing to age for another 5-7 years with ease. Serve it at 60-65 degrees in Bordeaux stems and break out something unmistakably Tuscan to pair with it. Some grilled steak with white beans would be a good call, or maybe dig a little deeper and try the attached recipe. As chefs go, they don’t get any more Tuscan than Cesare Casella, so I can assure you you’re in good hands. Enjoy!
