Côte Bonneville, “Dubrul Vineyard” Red Blend
Other, United States 2008 (750mL)
Regular price$125.00
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Côte Bonneville, “Dubrul Vineyard” Red Blend
Though the Shiels family knew the vineyard they planted deep in Washington’s Yakima Valley in 1992 was a golden terroir, the outside world was oblivious at the time. The family believed in the potential of the Dubrul Vineyard so much that it became the motivating force behind the creation of their estate, Côte Bonneville, in 2001. And then, boom: Nearly overnight, this tiny, family-run operation became a renowned estate, blasting their way to stardom as the world turned their eyes to the stunning reds emerging from this single vineyard.
By 2007, Dubrul was winning “Vineyard of the Year” (Seattle Magazine) and their flagship wine was consistently receiving unanimously high scores. Today’s 2008 is one of the greats. But it’s not just the brilliant terroir that makes this wine such a luxurious commodity: The Shiels hold onto this Cabernet/Merlot blend for an insane amount of time before unveiling it to the market; the 2010 vintage is their current release! Today’s rare offer—a microscopic production that is typically reserved for mailing lists and high-end restaurants—is a masterclass on grandeur and finesse that shows intense concentration and remarkable freshness in equal measure. At more than a decade old, it’s just entering its peak, and will proudly stand alongside any competition. Elite Napa, Bordeaux, Super Tuscan...bring it on!
By 2007, Dubrul was winning “Vineyard of the Year” (Seattle Magazine) and their flagship wine was consistently receiving unanimously high scores. Today’s 2008 is one of the greats. But it’s not just the brilliant terroir that makes this wine such a luxurious commodity: The Shiels hold onto this Cabernet/Merlot blend for an insane amount of time before unveiling it to the market; the 2010 vintage is their current release! Today’s rare offer—a microscopic production that is typically reserved for mailing lists and high-end restaurants—is a masterclass on grandeur and finesse that shows intense concentration and remarkable freshness in equal measure. At more than a decade old, it’s just entering its peak, and will proudly stand alongside any competition. Elite Napa, Bordeaux, Super Tuscan...bring it on!
Before moving any further, I want to highlight the gift of extended bottle aging. It’s a rare, if not dying, occurrence in a wine world that thrives on immediacy—honestly, who doesn’t want instant returns on a product? That said, there are a few bold wineries that withstand financial and temporal pressures in order to provide the customer with a fully integrated wine that’s ready to consume. Consider the world’s most famous Cabernet-blending region, Bordeaux. Here, this extreme level of prudence is all but extinct, with one standout being First Growth Château Latour. Beginning in 2012, they pulled out of the annual En Primeur (‘futures’) bonanza and stunned the wine-buying world. Instead of quick sales and worldwide distribution, Latour’s decision moving forward would be to hold back their wines until they reached proper maturity. At Côte Bonneville, this has been standard practice since day one.
So what’s special about their 45-acre Dubrul Vineyard? For one, the vines are ungrafted, which is also rare. Growers fortunate enough to have terroirs untouched by phylloxera have long believed that vines on their own rootstock are more pure and natural—essentially, it is free of plastic surgery. Second, there’s a constant shift between warm days and cool nights combined with 1,300 feet of elevation and the richly diverse soils spread along the Yakima Valley, Washington’s oldest designated AVA. Thirdly, the family farming it all. Hugh Shiels was labeled “Vineyard Master” by Wine Spectator and has diligently worked for decades to constantly improve an already top-tier site. One of the keys here is to sustainably farm as individually as possible, meaning no parcel, row, or vine is the same. Further, due to low water intake and low-vigor soils, their vines produce compact clusters and concentrated berries. In 2008, after hand-picking the low-yielding crop, the Cabernet (64%) and Merlot (36%) fermented separately before blending and aging for 23 months in 100% New French Oak. After bottling, the wine aged in their cellars for years and years.
Like the scene in “Ratatouille” where Remy combines two distinct flavors to create an otherworldly sensory experience, that’s what Côte Bonneville’s 2008 achieves by marrying the richness of Napa and the subtle complexities of Bordeaux. Still, it proudly waves the Washington flag, flaunting bottomless depth to its ripe, black-toned fruit, while interlacing a supple, fine-grained structure. Its freshness is underpinned by créme de cassis, black raspberry liqueur, black cherries, licorice, and a bountiful mix of ready-to-eat plums, yet all the while, Bordeaux aspects soar overhead: bay leaf, sweet pipe tobacco, leather, crushed stones, baking spices, whole cloves, red and purple flowers—it’s all here with an authoritative presence. I guarantee you’ll be shocked by its incredible balance of opulence, complexity, and elegance. Perhaps the best part, however, is how much more time it can withstand in the cellar: it will take ten more years of aging without sacrificing and iota of quality or flavor—in fact, it will only continue gaining intricacies. Serve in large stems around 65 degrees, alongside a rib roast and a few of your favorite Napa/Bordeaux-loving friends. They’ll fall madly in love.
