Although today’s wine, and its fellow 2013s, were officially released into the market at the beginning of 2018, they remain the “current vintage” of Brunello di Montalcino in circulation. That’s good news for us, because this is the best Brunello vintage I’ve encountered since 2010.
You might not glean that if you were to go by scores or vintage charts (or even the Montalcino
Consorzio’s ranking of 2013), but you will if you taste the wines. My takeaway on the 2013s is that they are wines of great balance and aromatic complexity—and indicative of the bias towards size that still exists in the world of scores and rankings. We are still equating the “biggest” with the “best,” even though some of those biggest, ripest (and highest-scoring) vintages of yore (like ’97) weren’t always the best over the long term. For me, the best summation of 2013 in Montalcino came from
Vinous Media’s Antonio Galloni: “Clearly, the 2013 Brunellos will leave those weaned on big, rich, tannic, high-pH wines scratching their heads,” he wrote, “but those who prefer their Sangiovese restrained and refined will be grinning from ear to ear.” That was exactly my reaction upon tasting La Serena’s perfumed and polished 2013. Theirs are always sleek, well-made Brunellos, but this one grabbed my attention not by brute force but by more finessed means. Aromatics and energy, along with pitch-perfect balance, will fuel this delicious Brunello over the long haul. In an age of oversized (and overrated) wines, this more modestly proportioned version is just right.
It is also, as of 2013, the product of Certified Organic vineyards. Since releasing their first La Serena wines in 1988, brothers Andrea and Marcello Mantengoli have farmed organically with an eye toward ‘official’ certification, and today’s wine has that coveted “Made from Organic Grapes” proclamation on its label. The La Serena estate, which has been in the Mantengoli family since 1933, is situated on the east side of the Montalcino hill, not far from Biondi-Santi and at an altitude of about 400 meters. They’ve grown their vineyard holdings to nine hectares, all of them planted to Sangiovese for either Rosso or Brunello di Montalcino, and their cellars, designed by Marcello Mantengoli, incorporate a wide assortment of “eco-friendly” features, including solar panels used for water heating and a geothermal system of heating and cooling the buildings.
The La Serena Brunello begins fermentation in stainless steel tanks and is then transferred to large wood casks of 30- to 40-hectoliter capacity to complete malolactic fermentation. Their aging regimen for their Brunello is three years in 20-hectoliter Slavonian oak barrels (and larger vessels), followed by further bottle aging before release, as is standard in Montalcino. In the glass, it’s a concentrated ruby/garnet extending to the rim, with explosive aromas of black cherry, red and black plums, blood orange peel, leather, tar, warm spices, espresso grounds, and underbrush. Medium-plus in body and firmly—but not aggressively—tannic, this is a “modern” style of Sangiovese that nevertheless retains a clear varietal identity. It’s a transporting Tuscan red that’s delicious to drink now but has a real precision to its balance, which is a sign of great aging potential: There’s enough freshness and structure here for a 20-year run at least, but that shouldn’t stop you from decanting a bottle about 60 minutes before serving at 60-65 degrees in large Bordeaux stems. I’m always inclined to throw a big ribeye on the grill for a wine like this, but let’s mix it up a bit—check out the attached recipe from chef Naomi Pomeroy and you’ll feel like you’re in the Montalcino countryside, drinking at a local osteria. As for your collection (if you have one), this wine is poised to improve in both quality and resale value. Don’t miss it!
