Only a handful of aficionados have ever spotted a bottle of Chablis Premier Cru “Troesmes” and far fewer have seen it on a label of Le Domaine d’Henri. So why does their very first vintage from this rarefied site taste so intelligently complete? Because it comes from the hands of Chablis master Michel Laroche.
Decanter magazine rightly compared the cachet of Monsieur Laroche to Michel Chapoutier of the northern Rhône and Olivier Humbrecht of Alsace. Clearly, he’s a local legend, and it wouldn’t take more than a minute to find someone in Chablis ready to sing Laroche’s praises. His family has tended vines in Chablis for more than 300 years, owned more Grand Cru vines than anyone else, and masterfully shaped themselves into one of Chablis’ largest blue-chip brands. Despite the fame, he still made the incredible decision in 2010 to return to his artisanal roots by selling his stake in Domaine Michel Laroche and establishing Le Domaine d'Henri (named after his father). His goal for this new venture was to create one-with-nature wines that showcased Chablis’ world-famous terroir in the most intimate way. Did it pay off? Today’s inaugural release from the rarely-seen “Troesmes” answers that with an emphatic YES!
The Laroches are a family steeped in Chablis viticulture, with records indicating their ancestors owned vines here in the late 1600s. So, obviously, it takes a brazen man to hit the “reset” button on a thriving business for a return to humble beginnings—but that’s exactly what Michel Laroche did when he sold off Domaine Laroche. This lucrative estate, which was handed down to him in the late 1960s by his parents, Henri and Madeleine, held (and still holds) the largest percentage of Grand Cru Chablis vineyards, but this didn’t matter to Michel—all he wanted to keep were the historic vineyards he had originally inherited from his father.
This special bottling is sourced from two 30-year-old parcels within Premier Cru “Troesmes.” Don’t know the name? You’re not alone: This site is considered a ‘sub-climat’ of Premier Cru “Beauroy” and is typically bottled as the latter. But, with Laroche in control of a few premium parcels, he believes specificity in this case is best. His choice old vines are farmed sustainably, or what they call “95% organic.” After hand harvesting in 2015, voluptuously ripe grapes were sorted in the winery and a spontaneous fermentation occurred in a combination of (mostly) stainless steel and one-to-four-year-old Burgundy and demi-muid barrels. Le Domaine d'Henri doesn’t adhere to a strict aging regimen, but seeing as they realize truly good Chablis needs time to develop, it can range from 1-2 years. It was bottled without fining or filtration.
What’s immediately apparent upon consuming this wine is its generosity. You’ll come across dozens of labels that are closed off in their first five years, but with the 2015 vintage, an already warm vineyard site, and the skilled winemaking at Le Domaine d'Henri, this emits a beautiful balancing act of invitingly ripe fruit and classic Chablis minerality. If you’re looking for elite Premier Cru to enjoy today, this “Troesmes” is your answer—it’s aging potential is off the charts too, should you want to save a couple (and you should!). After a 15-30 minute decant, settle in for a rich immersion of Key lime, freshly cut yellow apple, melon, sliced pineapple, honeysuckle, lemon blossoms, white peach, and a smattering of finely crushed chalk and oyster shell. The palate boasts an abundance of ripe fruits that are moderated by lifted acidity and chalky textures, both of which provide a long-lasting finish. Bright, round, and mouthwateringly savory, this will hang with a number of rich dishes—which is why we put it to the test with a sybaritic meal: scallops and fried lobster tail with a creamy garlic sauce. Enjoy it!
