I think we’ve all embraced the fact that truly “great” wine comes from a wider array of places today than it did in years past. Nevertheless, the typical collector’s cellar still draws from a relatively narrow universe—Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, Piedmont, Tuscany, and Napa Valley. If you are collecting with an eye toward name recognition and resale value, then yes, you’re not likely to stray too far from these blue chips.
But if you’re collecting with an eye toward wine, rather than price, appreciation—that is, actually drinking what’s in your cellar—then today’s 2004 Morgon from Domaine Calot will reward you handsomely. We first encountered this wine during a visit to the Calot cellars last year, and after being properly blown away by it, we arranged to special-order some as an exclusive for SommSelect subscribers. We’re now releasing what little stock remains in the world, and in so doing, I’m compelled to repeat what I said when we first offered this “Vieilles Vignes” (“old vines”) bottling: A wine need not be expensive to be a “collectible.” This wine proves that beyond a shadow of a doubt, and it’s still got good years ahead of it besides. Whatever your preconceived notions about “age-worthy” red wines, set them aside and open your mind (and cellar) to this. You’ll be glad you did!
Over the last few years especially, Cru Beaujolais has reached a new level of recognition and respect, with the wines of Morgon and neighboring Fleurie rising to the top rank of the region’s 10 cru-designated villages. Morgon, with its granitic soils mixed with some volcanic material, is known for producing some of the most structured, concentrated reds among the Beaujolais crus, and Domaine Calot has long been one of our trusted ‘go-to’ houses in this village—their high-altitude vineyards in the village of Villié-Morgon boast some incredible old plantings (vieilles vignes) that in some cases exceed 100 years of age. Overall, the Calots farm just 10 hectares of vineyards in Morgon, with most of their holdings situated in the “Corcelette” and “Douby” sub-zones, both of which sit on granite.
Although helmed by the precocious Vincent Calot these days, it was his late uncle, Jean, who crafted this bottle all those years ago. Impressively (and thankfully so), vineyard and winemaking work today is the same as it was back in 2004. The grapes for this bottling were hand-harvested and fermented on indigenous yeasts in stainless steel and aging took place in used, large-capacity oak foudres. Bottled unfined and unfiltered, it’s one of the most consistent, transparent, and well-structured expressions of old-vine Gamay you’ll find, and it has remained one of the best buys on the market despite the ever-rising fortunes of Morgon.
We were shocked when they revealed this small stash of 2004, even more so when they told us why they were holding it back—because of sediment! They didn’t think customers and restaurants would want it! Well, we checked a bottle overseas and one more when it arrived at our warehouse. It’s exactly where any 15-year-old, unfined, unfiltered Burgundy would be! To avoid the little that is there, stand the bottle upright 24 hours prior to opening and then carefully decant (stopping when you see the “smoke,” or wisps of sediment) for about 15 minutes before serving at 60 degrees in Burgundy stems.
Calot’s 2004 Morgon Vieilles Vignes show its maturity with a garnet core moving to brick-orange hues and reveals a raft of savory ‘secondary’ aromas intertwined with rich fruit and florals. After a few minutes of air, you can expect seductive aromas of candied rose petals and dried violets alongside wild berries, black cherry, dried raspberries, red plum skin, orange rind, iodine, pepper, and underbrush. Medium-bodied with tannins now sanded down to velvet smoothness, there’s still beautiful freshness and lift alongside a clean, fragrant finish. It has entered its peak drinking window but still has lots to offer over the next several years. I have enjoyed serving this wine blind to Burgundy-loving friends, and gauging their reactions when they hear what I paid for it! It’s almost as much fun as enjoying the wine together with a hearty, French-inspired meal with multiple bottles at the ready. That’s what it’s all about!
