Sometimes it pays to be blunt: Today’s “Les Champs d’Argent” is among the greatest “in-disguise” red Burgundies you’ll ever encounter. How we lucked into offering this tiny production Burgundy within a short jog of the world’s grandest Grand Cru vineyards—“La Tâche,” “Romanée-Conti,” “Richebourg”—is beyond me, but I’ll take it!
Whereas many examples of Bourgogne Rouge are blended from various sites across many different villages, René Cacheux’s .35-hectare sliver of vines is sourced within the commune of Vosne-Romanée from a single vineyard locally known as “Les Champs d’Argent.” Further, this bottling is from 2014—a vintage we can’t stop extolling—so if you want Vosne-Romanée pedigree, a blockbuster vintage, and a rock-bottom price, let this “pedestrian” Bourgogne Rouge be the answer. Quantities are microscopic, so employ a sense of urgency and hoard what you can, while you can. And remember: this bottle isn’t just a headliner for your next dinner party (idea: serve it blind), it’s also a collectible for any cellar. This is an affordable Burgundy we can all get behind!
You may be unfamiliar with the Cacheux family, but that wouldn’t be a blunder on your end—this young (for Burgundy) estate was founded in 1966 and only consists of 7.5 acres divided throughout Vosne-Romanée. Don’t mistake their tiny share of vine holdings as a mark on their pedigree—this fourth generation Cacheux family own some serious Burgundian dirt! Most notably, a half-acre in “Les Beaux-Monts,” a few acres in world-famous “Les Suchots,” and a smattering of vines that lie on the fringe of the commune.
If you are looking at the vineyard’s location on a map, I’m sure you’re wondering, “Why isn’t it labeled Vosne-Romanée?” Simple: A stretch of road that runs up the backbone of the commune separates “Bourgogne” level wines from the “village” level wines. Generally speaking, all vineyards west of this road (D974) are considered village-level and higher, and those on the eastern side are considered ‘regional’ a.k.a ‘Bourgogne.’ Still, we can throw the rulebook right out the window once considering everything that today’s limited label has to offer. Current proprietor Gerald Cacheux owns less than an acre of vines nestled in the southeast corner of Vosne-Romanée—with the cluster of Grand Crus starting just a few thousand feet to the northwest. He doesn’t treat this gem like a regional wine, either. He farms all of his vines sustainably without one ounce of “-cide.” After meticulously sorting and hand harvesting at low yields, his Pinot Noir is de-stemmed and transferred into open-top tanks where it undergoes a long fermentation with airborne yeasts. Upon completion, the wine is transferred into French barrels, 10% new, for 18 months. The final product is bottled without fining or filtration. Other than higher percentages of new oak, his much-pricier Premier Cru bottlings see the same élevage.
Cacheux’s 2014 “Les Champs d’Argent” exhibits a bright ruby core with a hazy pink rim. This shows amazing changes with air: A bit reticent at first, the wine blossoms into a gorgeously perfumed Burgundy after a 30-minute decant and only continues climbing up the sensory scale as time passes. Expect a rush of red-toned fruits and flowers with underbrush and a touch of warm baking spices. Crushed raspberries and strawberries lead the charge, followed by black cherries, tea leaves, crushed stones, damp bark, rose petals, and button mushrooms. Crunchy tannins and lingering acidity lend the wine its firm medium body that is further accented by a delicately soft, smoky-sweet finish. Still, there is impressive structure here that indicates it will continue thriving in the cellar. Enjoy a few bottles in the near term, but don’t be at all surprised if this is still performing at a high level in 2025 and beyond. As was true with Cacheux’s Premier Cru “Les Beaux-Monts,” this Bourgogne Rouge possesses a harmonious balance of supple fruit and elegant earthy savor that lingers from the start and never ceases. In a word—delicious! Serve in Burgundy stems a touch above cellar temperature, track down some quality quail and portobello mushrooms, and smile as your guests savor a world-class pairing. Cheers!
