Though a relative newcomer in the world of wine, Julien Sunier hasn’t just been a perennial favorite at SommSelect, he’s become a global sensation in the growing natural wine movement. Julien’s wines always deliver superb levels of energy few artisan
vignerons can match, and his Morgon, which is a masterful blend of old, extremely prized vineyard sites, is featured on all the trendiest wine lists.
Accordingly, prices keep creeping upward with each passing vintage—as does the wine’s already sky-high quality. Only the finest wines show such vivid character and singularity as this, essentially prompting you to say “that’s what [insert region/grape/style here] tastes like!” In Julien Sunier’s case, it’s a top Beaujolais Cru, from elite old vines, made as naturally as possible—hand farming, ambient yeasts, neutral oak, no filtering, minimal-to-no sulfur...you name it. In essence, it’s a must-have Burgundy that perfectly represents an entire category. And remember: the longer you wait, the pricier it becomes!
Sunier is one of a new wave of producers who’ve helped raise the profile of Beaujolais as a stronghold of natural farming and winemaking. Following in the footsteps of local legends like Lapierre and Foillard, Sunier would also be considered a disciple of the legendary Jules Chauvet, who was preaching the natural wine gospel in Beaujolais as far back as the 1950s. Yet while he hails from Burgundy (Dijon), Sunier wasn’t from a wine family; his mother was a hairdresser who counted vigneron Christophe Roumier as a client. In his twenties, Sunier followed the itinerant “cellar rat” path, interning in California and New Zealand before landing back in Burgundy, where he worked with the likes of Nicolas Potel and Jean-Claude Rateau. He then worked for the large négociant firm Mommessin, where, among other things, he became intimately acquainted with the terroir of Beaujolais and its Gamay grape.
Every year, Sunier selects from his Morgon parcels (less than five combined acres) within the treasured lieux-dits of “Corcelette,” “Py,” “Charmes,” and En Oeillat.” If there was ever a Grand Cru classification for Cru Beaujolais, several of these would certainly get the nod. Throughout these sites, Julien’s chemically-untouched vines average 50 years of age and are farmed organically with biodynamic principles. In 2017, he and his team hand harvested low yields and the grapes were shuttled to their nearby winery. Indigenous yeasts triggered fermentation in concrete vessels and an old vertical press was used to extract the juice. It was then gently transferred, via gravity, into 100% neutral Burgundy barrels (3-9 years old). After aging for 11 months, the wine was bottled unfined, unfiltered, and with a trace amount of sulfur.
Julien Sunier’s 2017 Morgon displays a brilliant ruby core moving out to a radiant ruby-pink on the rim. If you’ve been able to get your hands on previous vintages, this one may spring up to first place, if given the proper time to blossom: like a fine Côte de Nuits, decant for a minimum of one hour if consuming in the near future. After waiting the agonizing 60+ minutes and subsequently serving around 60 degrees in your largest Burgundy stems, stick your nose in and enjoy the explosion of pure, one-with-nature Gamay birthed from Morgon’s inimitable pink granite soils: wild strawberries, black cherry, roses, black raspberry, and crushed granite spring to the fore. You’ll also discover a handful of cherry blossoms, red currant, violets, flower stems, and a touch of pepper. The palate is medium-bodied and elegant with an underlying brooding force by way of chewy tannin and bracing acidity. Additionally, vibrant red fruits merge with crushed rock minerality on a savory, slightly prickly finish. It is certainly spirited and youthful today (and irresistible because of it), but this will enjoy a long cellar life, so drink one now and revisit your others over the next decade. It’s refined, refreshing, and ultimately, serious—for that reason, pair it with a filling main course. The attached beef wellington recipe will fit the bill perfectly.
