If you’ve never experienced the timeless and extremely rare Grand Cru whites of Château Simone (and those who don’t work in a top restaurant probably haven’t), prepare for all your expectations to be exceeded and all your preconceptions to be shattered. This is, without hesitation, one of the most deeply evocative and memorable wines on the planet, and one of the finest gems we’ll offer all year.
I mean it—this is a riveting wine, and in the case of Château Simone, there’s simply no choice but to pile on the superlatives. This historic estate is widely considered to be the best in the region. With a multi-century history of world-class quality and inimitable regality and grandeur, Simone is one of southern France’s few and undisputed Grand Crus. The one and only caveat with Simone blanc is the wines need time to mature. Thankfully, this has been done for you: Today, we’re delivering a pristine, ready-to-drink 2011 that was imported from Simone’s cold cellar in Provence. This bottle is absolutely screaming and it will only continue improving over the next 7-10 years—don’t miss out!
[*PLEASE NOTE: This wine is on special order and will be shipping from the SommSelect warehouse the week of Monday, March 4th.]
For more than two centuries, the Rougier family has been working the vines surrounding Château Simone. The family’s property clings to a single hillside in Montaiguet, a small hamlet just east of Aix-en-Provence, and twenty miles north of Marseille. The appellation that encompasses this village is Palette AOC, and even as a small independent producer, Château Simone produces a majority of the wine labeled within the designation. To the naked eye, Château Simone appears to be a classic family-run château, but it’s impossible to begin discussing the property without diving into the myriad qualities that make this one of the most unique estates in France.
The first and perhaps most shocking feature of the Rougier family’s vines is that they are north facing. Yes, you read that correctly—Simone’s vines cling to a 750-foot limestone face that is angled away from the sun. This is unusual, but it allows the vines to retain their freshness, despite the region’s fierce heat. It is one of the very few north-facing vineyards (in the northern hemisphere) I’ve ever seen that produces world-class wine. Next, there is a mind-boggling diversity of grape varieties among these ancient vines. Château Simone’s reds combine Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Syrah, Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Manosquin, Castet, Muscat Noir, Théoulier, Tibouren, Picpoul Noir, Muscat de Hambourg, and many others—not be outdone, today’s white is composed of Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, Ugni Blanc, Picpoul, and a touch of Muscat Blanc, among others. Finally, the character of Château Simone’s wines is perhaps what is most unique and fascinating for sommeliers. Despite the punishingly hot and long growing season, the century-and-a-half-old vines, and the diversity of varieties, Château Simone does not produce heavy or syrupy wines. On the contrary, the Rougiers are renowned for bottling chiseled whites that are defined by their power, elegance, balance, and detail. These are not Mediterranean “cocktail whites,” but rather memorable trophies for lovers of Grand Cru white Burgundy like Corton-Charlemagne and Bâtard-Montrachet.
Château Simone’s grapes are harvested by hand, destemmed, and lightly pressed before fermentation. Indigenous yeast fermentation lasts for two to three weeks in wooden vats. Fermentation takes place at a relatively warm 68 degrees and the resulting wine is aged for one year in 20–30 hl casks, followed by an additional year in mature oak barrels. All told, the process takes more than four years before release into the US market—but it’s still not enough! In my experience with Château Simone, the wines generally require at least an additional 5-7 years of cellaring before they start to really show their stuff. Today’s wine is a perfect example: I’ve opened a few bottles of this vintage since it was released, but only now, after many years of rest, is it truly screaming and wide open!
Today’s 2011 is a monstrous wine—in the very best way. Imagine, if you can, a hybrid of Grand Cru white Burgundy and a properly mature bottle of Chave Hermitage Blanc. That’s the major league ballpark we’re playing in here. Deep yellow with a slight gold hue, this explodes with powerfully rich aromatics of yellow apple, pear, honeysuckle, orange blossom, herbs, melon, vanilla, lemon peel, and an underlying chiseled minerality. There is incredible depth on the palate that brings an endless savory finish that keeps your mind racing with each new component that emerges. Creamy and brilliantly unique, this is a profound spectacle that shows a chameleonic side with oxygen exposure. Serve in bulbous Burgundy stems around 55-60 degrees and watch it blossom over several hours in a decanter. Simone’s powerful blanc will steamroll over delicate seafood, so please pair it with an appropriately robust dish—I recommend pan-seared veal chops, served on a pillow of garlic and herb mashed potatoes. With special company flanking your side, this experience cannot be outdone. Enjoy!
