Wine sourced from the lauded 1er Cru “Vaillons” is a delicious treat that every Burgundy connoisseur should experience, but it’s an absolute must when one of Chablis’ truly elite producers is part of the equation. If you want to heavily increase your expenditure for THE Dauvissat (that would be Vincent), by all means, go ahead and do so—their wines are worth it. But what would you say if we could offer a near-replica for a third of the price, without leaving the family tree or the acclaimed “Vaillons” vineyard?
Enter Jean et Sébastien Dauvissat, a small estate crafting extraordinary Chablis that contends with the far-pricier labels of their extended family. Today’s wine is a treasure, and in 2013 it earns another descriptor: “rare” (good luck finding a bottle anywhere). Production was less than half of their average annual output, so the few bottles that did leak out of their cellar were highly allocated. Even with this curtailed vintage, the Dauvissats didn’t rush to market—having mastered the art of patience, they let the wine rest several years in a combination of neutral oak, stainless steel, and bottle before its eventual release. Today’s limited offer is the result of that endurance, and it was well worth the wait. Now with 5+ years of age, this savory Chardonnay explodes from the glass with powerful chalk-etched minerality, savory honey-truffle components, and profound depth. It is a top-flight expression of mature Premier Cru Chablis that will highlight your cellar for years to come.
Sébastien Dauvissat’s family has been farming the same small collection of parcels near the hamlet of Chichée since 1899. Following the unfortunate death of his father, Jean, this property has essentially been a one-man show that produces a limited number of cases beneath Sébastien’s 17th-century house. As with all top sites in Chablis, Kimmeridgian limestone is the dominant soil type beneath this family’s vines—which are extremely limited in scope. Still, those they do own are located in some outstanding sites: The Premier Crus of “Les Sechets,” “Montmains, ” and “Vaillons,” and Grand Cru “Les Preuses.”
“Vaillons” is a renown Premier Cru that spreads across a southeast-facing slope on the west side of the Serein River (the cluster of Chablis Grand Crus is on the opposite side of the Serein to the northeast). Sébastien Dauvissat owns ten acres here, with vines ranging from 20-60 years old. Juice for this cuvée is pressed directly into both neutral barrel and stainless steel for fermentation (alcoholic and malolactic) and then aged for an extended period in both vessels before bottling. To give you an idea: Sébastien aims for the wine to be in contact with its lees for at least a year and for it to rest in bottle a minimum two years before release!
Sébastien’s 2013 “Vaillons” reveals a deep yellow core that shimmers with silver and pale gold tones, due to many years of bottle age. Still, the nose doesn’t take long to express itself—after 30 minutes in a decanter, you’ll be picking out citrus blossoms, white truffle, honey, lemon cream, Key lime, yellow apple skin, and a kiss of white peach, but all of these alluring aromas take a backseat in comparison to the salivating rushes of oyster shell salinity and crushed chalk minerality. The vibrant palate is silky, savory, and mineral-impacted—a dead-ringer for elite Chablis. Sébastien’s are chameleonic wines that evolve in dramatic fashion as hours pass by, but the overall message is one of great depth, savory texture, and sheer mineral power. It’s a deeply impressive wine beginning to enter its peak now, although the prime drinking window won’t arrive until its 7th-10th birthday—so do try and save a few bottles! It’s important to remember that top-tier Chablis needn’t be limited to rich cream sauces, oysters, and Michelin-starred restaurants—it’s one of the most diversely useful wines on the planet. So, pair this bottle with a simple oven-roasted sea bass with caramelized fennel. Enjoy!
