As I’ve asserted many times before, rosé can most definitely be “serious” wine. Producers these days stress that their rosé is
designed from the outset to be a rosé—as opposed to being a pink by-product of red wine production.
But, perhaps you remain unconvinced, and simply pick up whatever’s the cheapest, coldest, and most appealing shade of pink to your eye. If this is you, no need to read any further, but to my fellow rosé believers I say this: One of the most serious rosés of them all is on offer today. Château de Pibarnon is one of the top producers of Bandol rosé (the others being Domaine Tempier, Terrebrune, and Pradeaux), and when it comes to rosé wine, there isn’t a more prestigious address than Bandol. Having been there myself, I can attest to the fact that it is a magical place, and its salmon pink-hued wines, far from being afterthoughts, are perfect evocations of the flavors and smells of Provence and its signature Mourvèdre grape. As today’s 2017 so deliciously demonstrates, these are rosés with power, persistence, and sneaky longevity, with the added benefit of being chameleons on the dinner table. Of course, it’s an ideal summer wine, but for me, it’s an all-year wine. It is never the wrong choice, so stock up accordingly!
Château de Pibarnon sits at the highest point in the Bandol appellation, which I remember vividly from my visit there back in 2012. The approach to the estate is a narrow dirt road, and if another car came from the opposite direction, one of us had to back up and turn off without backing into a ditch. Arriving at the property felt like settling onto a perch—one with a panoramic view of vines planted on century-old terraces made of stone. Jagged, coastal mountains spiked with limestone in one direction, the Mediterranean in the other…not a bad setup, indeed, and of course the wines lived up to their surroundings. Sourced from vineyards arrayed in a natural, southeast-facing amphitheater, with soils of pebbly limestone over blue clay, the entire Pibarnon lineup—red, white, and rosé—reliably captures the essence of both the sea and the soil.
Bandol’s combination of soil composition and Mediterranean sun has proved ideal for the late-ripening Mourvèdre grape, the signature red of the appellation. And, as Bandol’s Mourvèdre-driven reds are widely regarded as Provence’s best—Pibarnon’s is a spicy, perfumed style capable of long, graceful aging—it stands to reason that the rosés from the grape would be similarly distinguished. Pibarnon’s rosé is comprised of 70% Mourvèdre and 30% Cinsault from old vines (30-50 years) grown at about 300 meters’ elevation, which subjects the grapes to wider diurnal temperature swings and helps maintain freshness. The Cinsault grapes for the rosé are pressed immediately after harvesting, but the Mourvèdre is crushed and put into a tank so that only the “free run” juice—the juice that flows from the grapes without any pressing—is drawn off. The Cinsault/Mourvèdre are fermented separately on indigenous yeasts, then later blended for 6 months aging in stainless steel before bottling.
As you might have guessed, the 2017 Pibarnon Rosé is full of energy, showing off a classic salmon-pink hue with light magenta highlights—and while 2017 was characterized as one of the hottest vintages ever on record, there’s not even a hint of over-ripeness here: The aromas are resolutely Provençal, with notes of wild strawberry, melon rind, red currant, pink grapefruit, hibiscus tea, lilac and lavender, dried herbs, and pink peppercorn. The palate impression is full and deep, but without any of the extra residual sugar or flabbiness that sinks a lot of southern French rosés. There’s real power and, as always, great focus and lift to this wine. I’m not going to forbid poolside sipping (when that time comes later this year), but at least get some good prosciutto, jamón, or American country ham to enjoy with it, ideally wrapped around some summer-ripe cantaloupe. Save some for your Thanksgiving dinner, too, as I always do (it really sings with those flavors). I won’t be waiting, however: A bottle tonight with a homemade bouillabaisse sounds perfect regardless of the season. Give it a try and I’m sure you’ll agree!
