Today we’re back in ‘Alto Piemonte,’ where Nebbiolo-loving sommeliers, journalists, and consumers have been drawn like moths to flame over the last few years. Although “upper Piedmont” was the region’s commercial winemaking center a century ago, it was later mostly abandoned until recently.
There’s a low-key, low-fi charm to wines being made in places like Bramaterra (source of today’s bottle), Gattinara, Lessona, and Ghemme—all of them historic appellations that shrunk to near-extinction. In Bramaterra, for example, there aren’t more than 30 hectares of vines left in the entire appellation, but today’s Alto Piemonte newcomer, Noah, managed to obtain about five of those precious hectares to establish their label. Everybody loves a comeback story, and the arrival of Noah on the scene is the latest example of the region’s exciting renaissance. Up here you’ll find somewhat kinder, gentler takes on Piedmont’s famed Nebbiolo grape, and in just their second commercial vintage, Noah owners Andrea Mosca and Giovanna Pepe Diaz expertly captured the volcanic spice and Alpine-wildflower lilt of Bramaterra Nebbiolo. They also created a wine that stands toe-to-toe, structurally, with great Barbaresco/Barolo. It’s a tiny-production, conscientiously farmed red with all the qualities that have made Bramaterra and its neighbors such vinous hotspots—the Burgundian dimensions; the perfumed, slightly wild character of Alpine Nebbiolo; and the exceedingly fair price despite its exceptional quality and rarity. Before it disappears into the best Italian restaurants in the country, grab some of this cutting-edge red for yourself!
[NOTE: This wine will be shipping from our warehouse on Monday, February 4th.]
Based in the village of Brusnengo, Noah is now one of the small handful of commercial labels in Bramaterra, which neighbors Gattinara and is one of the lesser-known of the DOC zones clustered in Piedmont’s Sesia River Valley. The Sesia flows down from Monte Rosa and eventually into the Pò south of Novara, and while there are some ‘alluvial’ soils in the region it is ultimately an amalgam of glacial, volcanic, and river-borne soil types. Bramaterra’s soils are of volcanic origin and contain a significant amount of porphyry—volcanic rock containing lots of minerals such as feldspar and quartz. Bramaterra is also unlike Barolo and Barbaresco in that the appellation laws allow for the inclusion of other grape varieties besides Nebbiolo—in this case the local varieties Croatina, Uva Rara, and Vespolina, which lend a little dark-fruited muscle to an otherwise high-toned, ethereal wine.
The Noah estate was first founded in 2010, and its owners were fortunate to obtain some mature vineyards in key villages within the zone. Today’s wine, just their second release, was sourced from about 2.5 hectares across four parcels in Brusnengo, where average vine age hovers around 25 years. It’s a blend of 80% Nebbiolo, 10% Croatina, and 5% each Uva Rara and Vespolina fermented in large wooden vats and aged in 27-hectoliter oak barrels for 12 months before bottling.
Having now enjoyed a few years of bottle age, this 2012 is singing right now and poised for further evolution in the years ahead. In the glass, it’s a medium ruby with garnet and orange reflections, with an intriguing aromatic profile that captures both the volcanic soil character and the cool-climate, sub-Alpine surroundings. Red and black cherry, currant, cranberry, and red apple share the air with scents of forest floor, tobacco, leather, ash, and iron shavings. It is approaching medium-plus in body, with the firm structure and bright acidity Nebbiolo is known for, though the a.b.v. is a touch more moderate than most Barolo/Barbaresco. It has the fine-grained, upright bearing of a cool-climate red and benefits greatly from a decanting: Give it about 45 minutes of air before serving it at 60-65 degrees in Burgundy stems, and know that any bottles you cellar will only improve. It will make it to its 10th birthday and likely well beyond that, providing an evocative, savory/smoky complement to the kinds of woodsy dishes Piedmont is known for. If you’re feeling like tackling something ambitious, check out the attached recipe from Chef/Legend Emeril Lagasse. This is a combination for the ages. Enjoy!
