Regularly mentioned as one of Bordeaux’s ‘Super Seconds’—i.e. châteaux classified as Second Growths that regularly perform like First Growths—Château Montrose has seen a massive infusion of investment since the billionaire Bouygues brothers acquired the property in 2006.
Among these investments has been an ongoing revitalization of the estate’s vineyards, and the results are plain to see in more recent vintages of the wines—so plain, in fact, that Montrose began releasing a third wine (previously reserved for employees) in the mid-2000s. Given that second and third wines in Bordeaux are typically sourced from younger vines, they represent not just a more affordable way for consumers to experience the château but a guarantee, of sorts, issued by that château. The messaging is straightforward: If this is what we can do with our third wine, made from our youngest vines and aged in very little new oak, imagine how great the first wine is! As we often say here on SommSelect, the best measure of a world-class wine estate may well be its least-expensive wine, and from this perspective, Château Montrose confirms its elite status with today’s delicious, classically styled 2014. This is old-school ‘claret’ through and through, and hardly feels like a step down from the estate’s celebrated second wine, “La Dame de Montrose.” We offer lots of stellar Bordeaux values here, but this one has an extra dose of celebrity sheen to it; what it confirms, unequivocally, is that Montrose’s reputation is far from just hype. It’s one of Bordeaux’s blue chips for a reason!
Château Montrose derives its name from the flowering heather that turns its hillsides rose-pink (thus the name mont rose). Situated at the southeastern end of Saint-Estèphe, less than 10 miles from Lafite-Rothschild in Pauillac, Montrose looks over the Gironde River on an elevated outcropping of gravel. This situation, featuring black sand over a clay and marl subsoil, offers the textbook soil composition of the appellation; Montrose’s vineyards are planted to 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot, with vines averaging 40 years of age.
The estate was first planted in 1815 by Etienne Théodore Dumoulin. Forty years later, the relatively young château was granted Second Growth status in the 1855 official classification. When Etienne passed away in 1861, he left his heirs an estate of 95 hectares, which comprises its current size today—a rarity. In 1866, the estate was purchased by Mathieu Dollfus, a dynamic proprietor who reorganized and modernized the facilities and offered housing, free healthcare and profit-sharing to his staff. The estate was then purchased by the Charmolüe family in 1896 who ushered it into the 21st century.
Then, in 2006, the Bouygues family acted on a family dream and purchased the estate. Under their guidance, the property has been meticulously restored with total historic accuracy. The Bouygues have also installed a geothermal system and rooftop solar panels, which has vastly reduced the estate’s carbon footprint, and a substantial investment has been made in the vineyards, many of which were replanted. Perhaps more than anything else, the release of Le Saint Estèphe de Montrose to the public (it had previously been reserved for Château employees) is a testament to the health and quality of these recently replanted vines.
Montrose’s First Wine, or Grand Vin, comprises about 55% of the château’s total production. In 2014, the grand vin contained 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and a smattering of Petit Verdot and Cab Franc aged 18 months in 80% new French. By contrast—and as is usually the case—the 2014 Le Saint-Estèphe is Merlot-driven (60%-40% Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon) with just 12 months in 15% new oak. It is designed to be consumed young, and it is also, as a by-product of this, a more transparent, terroir-driven wine at this stage in the game. There’s no heavy oak (or extract) to mask any of the pure, fragrant fruit and soil expression of the wine, making it a fantastic choice for near-term drinking. In the glass, it’s a deep ruby with garnet and purple reflections, with inviting aromas of blackcurrant, red and black plum, cassis, violets, graphite, wet clay, and crushed black rocks. It is medium-bodied and softly textured, and one of the things that stands out for me is how place-expressive it is: It is very clear, especially on the sweet/savory palate, that this wine hails from gravelly soils. It will serve you very well now and over the next 3-5 years, offering up one of the more textbook Left Bank Bordeaux experiences one could ask for. Decant it 30 minutes before serving in Bordeaux stems at 60-65 degrees and try it with a holiday classic like Beef Wellington. Or, given its incredible price, pull a cork one Tuesday night with some burgers. Either way, you can’t go wrong. Enjoy!
